Verge

23rd July 2011

Going to lunch with a friend, we originally were headed for Becco, but walking from the car we saw Verge and decided to try to go for lunch there. We needed have worried about being able to get a table as there was no-one at all in the restaurant. Glass windows with contemporary funky fit out, we were seated next to the window with a view of the nearby government park, the green 'grass' floor was designed to make you feel were on the 'verge' of the park and a part of the outside surroundings. With loud hip hop and r&b music it had a similar funky vibey feel to cumulus inc. (Although this may have been toned down if the place was full).

The wine and beer list was relatively small but i went with a couple of glasses of Sapporo on tap. The menu offered an interesting concept which for a small number of guests was excellent. They offered a tasting menu of 5 courses for $95 each but rather than the chef choosing the menu, we got to choose the 5 courses for the table. This consisted of 4 savoury and 1 sweet course. As well the savoury courses could have been any combination of entree or main courses. We decided on 2 from each.

With all the courses there was a strong use of contemporary molecular gastronomy techniques including soils, burnt and raw vegetables, aerated foods and juices. These added beauty and complexity to the plate but what was also noticeable was that beneath all these additional flourishes was perfectly cooked main ingredients that shone. All the dishes stayed in the mouth after they finished in a great way without being overpowering.

To start we were also offered a pre entree. Served in a small glass, it consisted a veal tartare, pickled fig and puffs. Clean flavours and the pickled fig was great.

The first entree was the green tip abalone with cucumber and asparagus and a whole load of different extra items included pearls, snow and soils. Presentation was unique looking and it was a complex dish but a dish with great flavour. The pearls were truly amazing in flavour.

The second entree was a dish of soft chewy pork belly with garlic rice crispies and juices flowers and roots. Amazing presentation, different colours and textures that worked well together along with a great flavour.

The first main course was the dory with mustard seeds and lotus roots. This was my favourite dish of the whole meal. Perfectly cooked fish with a lemon glaze and excellently combined with the mustard seeds and the lotus roots and burnt onions.

The final savoury dish was a square brick of shredded pressed duck with a thin coat seared skin on the outside. Combined with melon, turnips, radishes and a small container of olive oil broth served at the table. Great rich shredded duck  and combined well with the light fresh other ingredients.

For our sweet course we went with a dish of aerated white chocolate and salted walnuts, with passonfruit and a lemon balm and edible silver. The soft crumbly white chocolate and separate salted walnut pieces were great in flavour and the different textures of the dish were great. If was a really balanced dish with the flavours matching well to create a great dish.

Complex dishes and beautiful presentation but it was the flavours that brought a smile to the face. With good service that was attentive and friendly when required but invisible when not required. (although there was only 2 of us in the restaurant). The overall package of food, presentation and service was on the 'verge' of perfection and this was one of my favourite restaurants so far.