27th October 2011
As i was going to be in the city anyway for a 4km diabetes charity walk, i decided to complete another one from the list and go to Yu-u for number 49 on my list. Located on flinders lane through a single non descript door that you would believe would house a restaurant and would walk by without noticing if you didn't know it was there. However the word must have gotten out given the week long wait list and numerous people being turned away whilst i was eating.
Located in a downstairs basement the non descript outside belied the very Japanese and classy setting inside. Clean lines of wood and silver and grey along with some Japanese art and dim lighting and jazz music with some 4-6 ppl tables on the side and a private dining room but mostly there were chairs set around the grill with a tray and paper napkin in front of each.
The drinks menu was a decent selection of beers, wine and sake and the food menu consisted of 3 paper pages, one with specials, one with a series of hot and cold dishes and a yakitori menu (grilled skewers). I choose 1 cold dish and 3 hot dishes from the main menu and 2 chicken skewers.
The first dish to come out was the cold dish of king fish sashimi. Quality dense but light and fresh fish served with wasabi and a soy sauce. Great fresh tastes and a great opener to the meal.
The next to come out were the chicken skewers. One with a traditional sauce and the other with spring onion and salt. Moist chicken cooked well on the grill and good flavours.
This was followed shortly after by the fish cake tempura. A series of 10 lightly and delicately battered pieces of fish, they were exquisitely light and balanced and had great flavour.
The next dish was the most interesting combination but it did work very well. Braised pork belly smothered in melted cheese and sitting in a mirin and sweet soy broth. The cheese worked well with the pork belly and the slightly sweet broth cut the rich dense pork belly well.
The final course was a wagyu beef rolled around spring onion with a teriyaki marinade served on a bed of fresh Asian salad. The teriyaki beef was excellently complemented by the fresh salad. Excellent flavours and a great way to finish.
After inspecting the deserts, which consisted in true Japanese tradition of just black sesame and green tea ice creams, i choose to go somewhere else for desert. However the savoury courses were excellent and provided a chance to have a great mix of dishes at very reasonable prices. A much more authentic Japanese experience than Ocha and a slight improvement on the quality of the dishes.
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Bonus Item - Number 8
27th October 2011
As a congratulations for completing my advanced diploma of financial service, my boss took me for lunch. As we were in the city for a work presentation, we decided to go to a place in South bank and decided on number 8.
After being offered some warm bread accompanied by one carrot and one eggplant puree and given the reasonably extensive wine list, we given a food menu featuring two options. There was the full al a carte menu and the lunch special which offered excellent value with 2 course and a side for less than $50.
For entree i went with the ocean trout orechiette. Well cooked fish sitting on a bed of pasta with some melted butter running through it and a great sauce.
For main i went with a veal rib eye steak sitting on a bed of vegetables with a jus and my chosen side of whipped mash. The mash was great with smooth buttery texture and flavour and the veal rib eye was a nice cut of meat and cooked reasonably well.
A good value lunch special (even better value for me given being treated by my boss) and a solid amount and quality of options on offer. It did fall short of the level of cooking and service shown at the majority of the Italian restaurants on my list but was still an great meal and a good way to celebrate.
As a congratulations for completing my advanced diploma of financial service, my boss took me for lunch. As we were in the city for a work presentation, we decided to go to a place in South bank and decided on number 8.
After being offered some warm bread accompanied by one carrot and one eggplant puree and given the reasonably extensive wine list, we given a food menu featuring two options. There was the full al a carte menu and the lunch special which offered excellent value with 2 course and a side for less than $50.
For entree i went with the ocean trout orechiette. Well cooked fish sitting on a bed of pasta with some melted butter running through it and a great sauce.
For main i went with a veal rib eye steak sitting on a bed of vegetables with a jus and my chosen side of whipped mash. The mash was great with smooth buttery texture and flavour and the veal rib eye was a nice cut of meat and cooked reasonably well.
A good value lunch special (even better value for me given being treated by my boss) and a solid amount and quality of options on offer. It did fall short of the level of cooking and service shown at the majority of the Italian restaurants on my list but was still an great meal and a good way to celebrate.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
Cicciolina
23rd October 2011
On a very sunny and busy day in St. Kilda i headed out for lunch with an old friend to Cicciolina and to complete number 48 on my list (An even dozen to go now). With a no bookings policy i turned up at 1pm and was told there would be a 15 minute wait for a table and was asked to leave a name and return then.
After having a walk around Acland Street, we came back 15 minutes later. After entering a room with very rushed and frantic service, close tables, noisy and old school interior we were given our bread and menus. The overall service was very quick and efficient but kind of sloppy and rushed. Despite it being a Modern European restaurant the first course i choose was a very modern take on a Asian course, Chili fish cakes with a pesto mayo and slices of lemon. Served as three small balls of fishy cakes with a hint of chili and a pesto mayo sitting on a bed of lettuce and the lemon added a freshness to the dish. Basic, simplistic presentation but quality flavours.
The main course was a lamb loin with a juniper crust. Perfectly cooked lamb with a nice crust edge and very pink centre. Combined with mash and spinach and shaved beans with a sherry and bone marrow jus. After the recent high end dining experiences, the presentation and type of food was fairly basic but the flavours were good and the food didn't pretend to be anything that it wasn't. Great wholesome food with quality flavours.
The desert i choose was a bit of a sloppy mess with peanut and popcorn toffee cluster embedded into a mix of salted caramel ice cream and a valrhona chocolate sauce. The desert looked anything but pleasant but tasted amazing. The contrast of slightly salted caramel and popcorn contrasted with sweet flavours of the toffee and chocolate sauce and the mix of soft and smooth flavours matched well with the crunchy toffee.
I finished off the meal with a chocolate, almond and orange truffle. Rich and dense, the dark chocolate was slightly flavoured with a hint of almond and orange flavour. Very intense dark chocolate flavour, the truffle was great.
Good flavours, simple dishes done well with rich, bold flavours. Some of the presentation and service left a little to be desired but the food was great. The value was pretty good as well with three courses, a truffle and a glass of wine for less than $75.
On a very sunny and busy day in St. Kilda i headed out for lunch with an old friend to Cicciolina and to complete number 48 on my list (An even dozen to go now). With a no bookings policy i turned up at 1pm and was told there would be a 15 minute wait for a table and was asked to leave a name and return then.
After having a walk around Acland Street, we came back 15 minutes later. After entering a room with very rushed and frantic service, close tables, noisy and old school interior we were given our bread and menus. The overall service was very quick and efficient but kind of sloppy and rushed. Despite it being a Modern European restaurant the first course i choose was a very modern take on a Asian course, Chili fish cakes with a pesto mayo and slices of lemon. Served as three small balls of fishy cakes with a hint of chili and a pesto mayo sitting on a bed of lettuce and the lemon added a freshness to the dish. Basic, simplistic presentation but quality flavours.
The main course was a lamb loin with a juniper crust. Perfectly cooked lamb with a nice crust edge and very pink centre. Combined with mash and spinach and shaved beans with a sherry and bone marrow jus. After the recent high end dining experiences, the presentation and type of food was fairly basic but the flavours were good and the food didn't pretend to be anything that it wasn't. Great wholesome food with quality flavours.
The desert i choose was a bit of a sloppy mess with peanut and popcorn toffee cluster embedded into a mix of salted caramel ice cream and a valrhona chocolate sauce. The desert looked anything but pleasant but tasted amazing. The contrast of slightly salted caramel and popcorn contrasted with sweet flavours of the toffee and chocolate sauce and the mix of soft and smooth flavours matched well with the crunchy toffee.
I finished off the meal with a chocolate, almond and orange truffle. Rich and dense, the dark chocolate was slightly flavoured with a hint of almond and orange flavour. Very intense dark chocolate flavour, the truffle was great.
Good flavours, simple dishes done well with rich, bold flavours. Some of the presentation and service left a little to be desired but the food was great. The value was pretty good as well with three courses, a truffle and a glass of wine for less than $75.
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Grossi Florentino
17th October 2011
After a work presentation in the afternoon featuring Bear Grylls, i was going to be in the city anyway and decided to take that opportunity to head out for dinner at Grossi Florentino. After being let in through the big main doors and going up the stairs, we were greeted by a plethora of Italian waiters with a series of buongiornos. The upstairs dining area was filled of Italian murals on the wall, old school Italian music and the full Italian experience that screamed decadence and opulence and could have been overlooking the Tiber river or Piazza San Marco.
The service was very pleasant, punctual and efficient but was obviously designed to be old school and being there to serve you rather than interacting on a personal level. However this type of service was consistent with the type of place Grossi Florentino sets out to be.
After being seated and offered an extensive and wide ranging wine list that offered wines various sections and choices. Slightly on the pricier side that most restaurants it still offered some lower end options. After selecting a Leffe Blonde beer and a Primosic to accompany the main course (bold flavoured wine similar to a chardonnay) we were presented with the two menus (a la carte and the degustation - 8 course, 5 course and vegetarian). I went for the 5 course degustation but given my lack of enthusiasm about Tuna the wait staff allowed me to change the tuna dish for any other antipasto or first course on the menu.
However before the first course arrived we were treated to a series of pre dinner entrees. The first up was a cigar of flaky pastry filled with a pistachio, feta and balsamic paste. Amazingly bold flavours and the crispy pastry worked well with the smooth feta in the middle.
After the first mini entree we were offered grisini and olives as well as a selection of 4 different types of breads accompanied by french butter, lardo (cured pork fat) and olive oil. They were all amazing even if i could feel my arteries clogging from this dish alone.
These were followed by another complementary dish. A chicken terrine, topped with a single quail egg and adorned with a flattened, caramelised pig cheek. The pig cheek was exquisite whilst the other two items were very good if not amazing.
The last complementary dish was a veal mousse wrapped in ox tongue, topped with black sea salt and served on a stick. Wonderfully smooth veal mousse and packed with flavour and the black sea salt lifted the flavours.
Ah we have arrived at the first course. Meant to be the Tuna Carpaccio i made the switch and choose the Black Pudding. Served as a breakfast dish at dinner the combo of the black pudding, veloute of eggs, foie gras cigar, hazelnut and bacon powder was a delightful version of the old breakfast classic and was delicious.
The second course took a slightly different tone to the previous dishes with this being light and fresh as opposed to the rich and heavy food of the rest of the meal. An octopus salad with pickled vegetables and a goat's cheese croquette. The salad was light and fresh and balanced the pickled vegetables with the perfectly cooked octopus, however the goat's cheese croquette was the real star with a crisp batter and soft goat's cheese centre with a slightly lemony flavour.
The third course went back to the rich and decadent ways of the previous dishes with a Lobster ravioli, pea puree, caviar and a burnt butter sauce. Bold partnership of rich flavours that worked brilliantly and the smell and taste of the Lobster Ravioli was sublime.
The 4th course and last savoury course was a wagyu beef rum cap (an quality cut of meat perfectly cooked with a very pink centre and darkened edge) sitting on a bed of diced potatoes and two long thin slices of pickled veal tongue and served with salsa Verde and a fennel soil. They also poured on a beef jus at the table. This was Italian cooking at its best. Simple, bold and powerful flavours done in an amazing way that made you feel warm and happy inside.
Before the final course and the desert, there was a slight delay as they prepared the Chocolate Souffle. Unfortunately this meant i had to listen to the obnoxious, bitchy and loud conversation of two men on the far side of the dining room who were rude to the staff and were irritating and discourteous to everyone else in the room, which as we had a 8pm booking was very few people apart from us at this stage.
The Souffle arrived and was accompanied with a small pot of dark chocolate and a malt ice cream. Unfortunately having been to Vue Du Monde 2 days earlier and having been served a chocolate souffle there, this one had a lot to live up to. This souffle was not as light as the one at Vue Du Monde and was more dense. The light malt ice cream did contrast the rich heavy chocolate flavours and its was very good but not on the same level as the one from Vue Du Monde (although nowhere else has come close either).
A final touch was the presentation of a printed and bound copy of the menu i had been served including the changes i had made. A nice little touch that they went to the trouble of as i was eating. The meal was great and the best Italian food eaten in Melbourne. Bold rich flavours and the 5 courses (plus extras) were more than enough to leave us full. The food, decor and service spoke of an opulence of times past and was very professional and well done. The price ($185 for me) was too much for everyday (and with this food that may be a good thing for my waist as well) but it screamed of big occasion dinner.
After a work presentation in the afternoon featuring Bear Grylls, i was going to be in the city anyway and decided to take that opportunity to head out for dinner at Grossi Florentino. After being let in through the big main doors and going up the stairs, we were greeted by a plethora of Italian waiters with a series of buongiornos. The upstairs dining area was filled of Italian murals on the wall, old school Italian music and the full Italian experience that screamed decadence and opulence and could have been overlooking the Tiber river or Piazza San Marco.
The service was very pleasant, punctual and efficient but was obviously designed to be old school and being there to serve you rather than interacting on a personal level. However this type of service was consistent with the type of place Grossi Florentino sets out to be.
After being seated and offered an extensive and wide ranging wine list that offered wines various sections and choices. Slightly on the pricier side that most restaurants it still offered some lower end options. After selecting a Leffe Blonde beer and a Primosic to accompany the main course (bold flavoured wine similar to a chardonnay) we were presented with the two menus (a la carte and the degustation - 8 course, 5 course and vegetarian). I went for the 5 course degustation but given my lack of enthusiasm about Tuna the wait staff allowed me to change the tuna dish for any other antipasto or first course on the menu.
However before the first course arrived we were treated to a series of pre dinner entrees. The first up was a cigar of flaky pastry filled with a pistachio, feta and balsamic paste. Amazingly bold flavours and the crispy pastry worked well with the smooth feta in the middle.
After the first mini entree we were offered grisini and olives as well as a selection of 4 different types of breads accompanied by french butter, lardo (cured pork fat) and olive oil. They were all amazing even if i could feel my arteries clogging from this dish alone.
These were followed by another complementary dish. A chicken terrine, topped with a single quail egg and adorned with a flattened, caramelised pig cheek. The pig cheek was exquisite whilst the other two items were very good if not amazing.
The last complementary dish was a veal mousse wrapped in ox tongue, topped with black sea salt and served on a stick. Wonderfully smooth veal mousse and packed with flavour and the black sea salt lifted the flavours.
Ah we have arrived at the first course. Meant to be the Tuna Carpaccio i made the switch and choose the Black Pudding. Served as a breakfast dish at dinner the combo of the black pudding, veloute of eggs, foie gras cigar, hazelnut and bacon powder was a delightful version of the old breakfast classic and was delicious.
The second course took a slightly different tone to the previous dishes with this being light and fresh as opposed to the rich and heavy food of the rest of the meal. An octopus salad with pickled vegetables and a goat's cheese croquette. The salad was light and fresh and balanced the pickled vegetables with the perfectly cooked octopus, however the goat's cheese croquette was the real star with a crisp batter and soft goat's cheese centre with a slightly lemony flavour.
The third course went back to the rich and decadent ways of the previous dishes with a Lobster ravioli, pea puree, caviar and a burnt butter sauce. Bold partnership of rich flavours that worked brilliantly and the smell and taste of the Lobster Ravioli was sublime.
The 4th course and last savoury course was a wagyu beef rum cap (an quality cut of meat perfectly cooked with a very pink centre and darkened edge) sitting on a bed of diced potatoes and two long thin slices of pickled veal tongue and served with salsa Verde and a fennel soil. They also poured on a beef jus at the table. This was Italian cooking at its best. Simple, bold and powerful flavours done in an amazing way that made you feel warm and happy inside.
Before the final course and the desert, there was a slight delay as they prepared the Chocolate Souffle. Unfortunately this meant i had to listen to the obnoxious, bitchy and loud conversation of two men on the far side of the dining room who were rude to the staff and were irritating and discourteous to everyone else in the room, which as we had a 8pm booking was very few people apart from us at this stage.
The Souffle arrived and was accompanied with a small pot of dark chocolate and a malt ice cream. Unfortunately having been to Vue Du Monde 2 days earlier and having been served a chocolate souffle there, this one had a lot to live up to. This souffle was not as light as the one at Vue Du Monde and was more dense. The light malt ice cream did contrast the rich heavy chocolate flavours and its was very good but not on the same level as the one from Vue Du Monde (although nowhere else has come close either).
A final touch was the presentation of a printed and bound copy of the menu i had been served including the changes i had made. A nice little touch that they went to the trouble of as i was eating. The meal was great and the best Italian food eaten in Melbourne. Bold rich flavours and the 5 courses (plus extras) were more than enough to leave us full. The food, decor and service spoke of an opulence of times past and was very professional and well done. The price ($185 for me) was too much for everyday (and with this food that may be a good thing for my waist as well) but it screamed of big occasion dinner.
Vue Du Monde
15th October 2011
Having planned and organised this night for my birthday for 4 months in advance the night was finally here for our trip to Vue Du Monde (and to finish number 46 off my list). After arriving early i checked into the downstairs reception area and was shown to the elevator. The elevator was operated by the reception person by remote. This was an indication of the level of detail and intricacy beyond anything seen at a restaurant in Melbourne before. Every detail and part of the restaurant, menu service had been customized to a vision devised by Shannon Bennett.
The clarity of this vision and the confidence in it also allowed the staff to really excel and go beyond the normal level of service and really interact with the guests. After being shown upstairs given i was early i headed to the Liu Bar attached to the restaurant. With great views over the city and out to sea and Albert park and amazingly decor the bar was equally impressive as everything about the restaurant and was very comfy.
I choose the Macadamia Martini. Macadamia infused Vodka with sugar cane, vermouth and a side of smashed macadamia praline. Beautiful, exquisite and decadent. After everyone had arrived and settled in for one drink in the bar and Clare eventually turned up we were moved into our dining area and they carried our drink through.
Given the special occasion and the size of our party (14 people), we were shown through to our private dining room. A reasonably blank dining area with our own bar in the corner and a long beautifully crafted table. Adorned with various wooden pieces that turned into cutlery holders and with wooden light fixtures. We also had our own balcony that was lit up with red heaters and light.
I started off with a glass of very expensive and very smooth and the most delicious glass of Dom Perignon 2002 vintage champagne.
After we had all been seated our personal chef, Florent, came out and enquired about dietary requirements, matching wines and explained the format of the evening. (the only down point was that these had been organised beforehand). Florent and our personal host and Waitress were all amazing, charming, engaging and genuinely seemed to be enjoying themselves nearly as much as we were (even if the Waitress did seem to be in the room for the most inappropriate points - various weird conversations, Anja talking about stealing cutlery and Speed and I fighting with the wooden place block).
Florent or one of the other chefs (including some first year apprentices) would come out and explain each dish in detail and present it. This started with a combo of amuse bouche with a thin strip of pumpkin topped with pumpkin seeds, a oyster and lime puree wrapped in an edible cellophane ravioli and a extremely crispy slice of eel covered in white chocolate and caviar. Served on fancy slates and the eel was my favourite the crispiness and balanced flavour between the eel and the chocolate and caviar was excellent.
The final amuse bouche was a thin slice of venison served on a warm slab of salt rock that cured the venison as it was sitting on the rock. Rolled at the table and full of flavour and slightly salted . It was great.
The first proper course was a subtle mix of 4 sections of spanner crab topped with avocado, shaved kohlrabi (German turnip) and some caviar. A lime was shaved over the meal at the table. Fresh and quality flavour beautifully topped off with the hit of lime.
The next course was many people's favourite savory dish. A walnut puree already on the plate and a variety of different mushrooms served on a wood log and poured into the main dish before a cona infusion (distilled through a old school coffee making technique). A bold and beautiful infusion and the mushroom flavour was rich and bold. Great strong flavours and a great mix of the broth and raw, semi cooked and cooked mushrooms. Amazing innovation, technique and taste.
With this course we were served a beautiful bread roll and rich french butter that was scooped like ice cream from a big container and put onto a serving block of granite.
The next course was probably my favourite savoury course. A perfectly poached fat and juicy WA marron tail served with a rich luxurious brown butter emulsion that was truly decadent and you could feel the future heart attack but didn't care (as Maya exclaimed that she wanted to eat so much that it would replace her blood). It was accompanied with a beef tongue sandwich which was also fantastic. Eaten with your fingers it gave the impression of old school decadence and extravagance.
The next dish was probably one of the more expensive and decadent dishes. A slow cooked duck egg yolk and a celeriac puree replacing the yolk. mixed with lamb sweetbreads, pickled onions and a generous shaving of white truffles done at the table. The duck egg was slow cooked and amazing with the yolk that burst and was a bright orange. The white truffles smelled great as they were being shaved and added a rich woody flavour to the dish.
In between the entree courses and the mains, we were treated to a palate cleanser. This was the most fun and interactive dish. A mix of mini herbs served with a small bowl. The herbs were covered in liquid nitrogen until it become frozen and we were instructed to crush the herbs with the provided pestle. Once they had been sufficiently smashed we were provided a scoop of cucumber sorbet and told to mix the herbs and sorbet until it formed a paste. The modern technique and molecular gastronomy was outstanding but the flavour matched this dazzling display of theatre and technique.
The first main course was a dish of rabbit cooked in a variety of different ways using a variety of cuts of the rabbit. Served with a white asparagus stalk covered in a batter and a smoked potato puree. It was a great dish and delicious different types of rabbit perfectly cooked and the asparagus spear covered in batter was amazing.
The next main course was the fish course. A firm piece of Trumpeter fish (or Strumpet fish for Lyd) served with a herb emulsion, shaved prawn and a foam and tiny flowers. It was also accompanied with a smoked bone marrow stock that was served at the table by owner Shannon Bennett in a special guest appearance.
The final savour course was an amazing combo of wagyu beef in four small cubes that was perfectly cooked to medium rare, maybe slightly closer to rare. Melting and full beef flavour with perfect Wagyu marbling. Combined with a sliver of chestnut, wild garlic and a tiny piece of glace cherry, it was a simple dish that was presented elegantly and allowed the flavours to shine through.
We were then served the first desert course - a deconstructed lemon meringue pie. Having tried a deconstructed lemon meringue pie at the Summit the week before the contrast in presentation, technique and flavour was very noticeable. (I still loved the dish at the Summit). Blobs of meringue lightly toasted, with lemon curd and biscuit and white chocolate crumble. Amazingly bold and great flavours. Loved It!!
The next dish was an unusual combo of blobs of carrot, pineapple and a sorbet of carrot top. This was probably my least favourite dish but still had great flavours and technique. But there was something missing from this dish that would elevate it to the level of the other dishes.
The final dish was actually my favourite dish overall and was so simple but so perfectly done that it was incredible. A chocolate souffle that was so light that it felt like air, topped with a dark chocolate sauce and a creme anglais. Retained perfect form once cut and the creme poured through the dish and the taste was amazing.
The meal was finished off with petit fours and i choose to have some tea to finish the meal and possibly keep me awake for the journey home. Four different small dishes consisting of a lemon sherbet jelly, a peppermint marshmallow, frozen ice cream with a crumb topping on a stick and a lamington with a cherry blob on top. I had a special treat for my birthday with the petit fours being served on a plate with a birthday message written in white chocolate. Great flavours especially the lemon sherbet and a great way to finish the meal.
12 Courses of fantastic food, service that exceeded the high expectation i had and a quality fit out and amazing views of Melbourne. Given the price it is definitely not for everyday but with the amount of time taken, food and alcohol consumed and the opulence and decadence of the evening you probably wouldn't want to. But a memorable big occasion decision and a great night out celebrating my birthday with friends. Amazing quality of food and the whole experience, especially the private dining and private chef, wait staff and host, is enough to lift this restaurant to this top of my list.
Having planned and organised this night for my birthday for 4 months in advance the night was finally here for our trip to Vue Du Monde (and to finish number 46 off my list). After arriving early i checked into the downstairs reception area and was shown to the elevator. The elevator was operated by the reception person by remote. This was an indication of the level of detail and intricacy beyond anything seen at a restaurant in Melbourne before. Every detail and part of the restaurant, menu service had been customized to a vision devised by Shannon Bennett.
The clarity of this vision and the confidence in it also allowed the staff to really excel and go beyond the normal level of service and really interact with the guests. After being shown upstairs given i was early i headed to the Liu Bar attached to the restaurant. With great views over the city and out to sea and Albert park and amazingly decor the bar was equally impressive as everything about the restaurant and was very comfy.
I choose the Macadamia Martini. Macadamia infused Vodka with sugar cane, vermouth and a side of smashed macadamia praline. Beautiful, exquisite and decadent. After everyone had arrived and settled in for one drink in the bar and Clare eventually turned up we were moved into our dining area and they carried our drink through.
Given the special occasion and the size of our party (14 people), we were shown through to our private dining room. A reasonably blank dining area with our own bar in the corner and a long beautifully crafted table. Adorned with various wooden pieces that turned into cutlery holders and with wooden light fixtures. We also had our own balcony that was lit up with red heaters and light.
After we had all been seated our personal chef, Florent, came out and enquired about dietary requirements, matching wines and explained the format of the evening. (the only down point was that these had been organised beforehand). Florent and our personal host and Waitress were all amazing, charming, engaging and genuinely seemed to be enjoying themselves nearly as much as we were (even if the Waitress did seem to be in the room for the most inappropriate points - various weird conversations, Anja talking about stealing cutlery and Speed and I fighting with the wooden place block).
Florent or one of the other chefs (including some first year apprentices) would come out and explain each dish in detail and present it. This started with a combo of amuse bouche with a thin strip of pumpkin topped with pumpkin seeds, a oyster and lime puree wrapped in an edible cellophane ravioli and a extremely crispy slice of eel covered in white chocolate and caviar. Served on fancy slates and the eel was my favourite the crispiness and balanced flavour between the eel and the chocolate and caviar was excellent.
The final amuse bouche was a thin slice of venison served on a warm slab of salt rock that cured the venison as it was sitting on the rock. Rolled at the table and full of flavour and slightly salted . It was great.
The first proper course was a subtle mix of 4 sections of spanner crab topped with avocado, shaved kohlrabi (German turnip) and some caviar. A lime was shaved over the meal at the table. Fresh and quality flavour beautifully topped off with the hit of lime.
The next course was many people's favourite savory dish. A walnut puree already on the plate and a variety of different mushrooms served on a wood log and poured into the main dish before a cona infusion (distilled through a old school coffee making technique). A bold and beautiful infusion and the mushroom flavour was rich and bold. Great strong flavours and a great mix of the broth and raw, semi cooked and cooked mushrooms. Amazing innovation, technique and taste.
With this course we were served a beautiful bread roll and rich french butter that was scooped like ice cream from a big container and put onto a serving block of granite.
The next course was probably my favourite savoury course. A perfectly poached fat and juicy WA marron tail served with a rich luxurious brown butter emulsion that was truly decadent and you could feel the future heart attack but didn't care (as Maya exclaimed that she wanted to eat so much that it would replace her blood). It was accompanied with a beef tongue sandwich which was also fantastic. Eaten with your fingers it gave the impression of old school decadence and extravagance.
The next dish was probably one of the more expensive and decadent dishes. A slow cooked duck egg yolk and a celeriac puree replacing the yolk. mixed with lamb sweetbreads, pickled onions and a generous shaving of white truffles done at the table. The duck egg was slow cooked and amazing with the yolk that burst and was a bright orange. The white truffles smelled great as they were being shaved and added a rich woody flavour to the dish.
In between the entree courses and the mains, we were treated to a palate cleanser. This was the most fun and interactive dish. A mix of mini herbs served with a small bowl. The herbs were covered in liquid nitrogen until it become frozen and we were instructed to crush the herbs with the provided pestle. Once they had been sufficiently smashed we were provided a scoop of cucumber sorbet and told to mix the herbs and sorbet until it formed a paste. The modern technique and molecular gastronomy was outstanding but the flavour matched this dazzling display of theatre and technique.
The first main course was a dish of rabbit cooked in a variety of different ways using a variety of cuts of the rabbit. Served with a white asparagus stalk covered in a batter and a smoked potato puree. It was a great dish and delicious different types of rabbit perfectly cooked and the asparagus spear covered in batter was amazing.
After a small break after the main course, we were served some white chocolate and coconut balls. Smooth and creamy with a generous servce of coconut on top, they were bitesize mouthfuls of awesomeness.
We were then served the first desert course - a deconstructed lemon meringue pie. Having tried a deconstructed lemon meringue pie at the Summit the week before the contrast in presentation, technique and flavour was very noticeable. (I still loved the dish at the Summit). Blobs of meringue lightly toasted, with lemon curd and biscuit and white chocolate crumble. Amazingly bold and great flavours. Loved It!!
12 Courses of fantastic food, service that exceeded the high expectation i had and a quality fit out and amazing views of Melbourne. Given the price it is definitely not for everyday but with the amount of time taken, food and alcohol consumed and the opulence and decadence of the evening you probably wouldn't want to. But a memorable big occasion decision and a great night out celebrating my birthday with friends. Amazing quality of food and the whole experience, especially the private dining and private chef, wait staff and host, is enough to lift this restaurant to this top of my list.
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Matteo's
13th October 2011
On a non descript part of northern Brunswick Street in North Fitzroy, i headed out on a Thursday night for dinner at Matteo's to complete number 45 on my list. (15 to go in the next 11 weeks before my deadline). With the outside being rather inauspicious outside, the inside was a complete contrast. a very theatrical dapper dining area with a purple chairs, fine cutlery and beautiful wallpaper and heavy curtains separating the function areas.
After being offered a comprehensive drinks list, i decided to start with a Sapporo beer before heading on to a Scorpo Pinos Gris later in the night (very nice wine). After toying with the idea of al a carte options i decided i would let the chef tell me what i should be eating by selecting the 4 course tasting menu. The 4 courses each featured multiple different parts served on the one plate.
The first course consisted of three elements for the one course. A tartate of citrus cured salmon with avocado served between 2 crackers and topped with salmon roe, a sichuan pepper & garlic prawn tempura on a bed of seaweed salad and finally a wasabi pea crusted yellowfin tuna tartare with a Tokyo turnip and a smoked eel mayo. The tuna had a beautiful crust with just enough wasabi pea and was light and well balanced and my favourite of the three. The tempura was very crisp and had good flavour but lacked any kind of punch or boost from the pepper or garlic. The final element was the cured salmon and the combo of the salmon and avocado worked well together. As a combo the three dishes were presented exquisitely on the plat and the combo of two light and fresh parts and the one cooked tempura part was an excellent contrast.
The second course was again a combo of dishes (in this case 2) served a the one plate. One a crab meat dim sum with gingered wombok cabbage and XO sauce. The other a tempura zucchini flower filled with feta served on a square block of watermelon.
The Zucchini flower had a crisp tempura batter that offered a great contrast between the cool watermelon and salty feta. Quality technique and flavours.
The crab dim sum could be smelt as they served the plate to me and it smelled amazing. Soft delicate crab meat in a soft casing. (not your average dim sum). The XO jam wasn't quite as flavourful or strong as i would have liked (It may have taken over the dish if it was too powerful) but the overall dish was great.
The third and main course was 2 element; one being a twice cooked master stock quail ballotine filled with duck and pork sausage with pickled cabbage and BBQ sauce and the other a Panko (Japanese flaky breadcrumb) lamb cutlet with snow pea and daikon and wasabi mayo. These were both solid dish and showed a great display of technique and mastery of balancing Japanese inflections with European technique but they were only great dishes and lacked a wow factor to take it to the next level. However the wasabi mayo was amazing and the crumbs on the lam cutlet were excellent.
If the main course lacked a slight wow factor then they must have kept it all for the desert. Two amazing deserts. The first a folded orange crepe roulade topped with a creamy and delicious chestnut cream. Accompanying it was a tangerine ice cream with a chocolate wafer on a bed of chocolate soil.
The next was served in a glass on the plate and was a strawberry trifle featuring layers of strawberry jelly and white chocolate and vanilla cream. Combined with framboise macerated strawberries, marshmallows and a crisp macaroon. Well balanced and perfectly executed it offered a re imagining and updating of a classic dish for the 21st Century.
Great concepts and execution and matching of European and Japanese flavours and technique throughout the meal. Throw in good service and it was a memorable meal. Some elements of various dishes lacked a little flavour at times but the finesse and quality of the dishes was outstanding and evident throughout. The desert however were a highlight and a great way to finish the meal. A place in the bottom half of the top time is appropriate for now but with Vue Du Monde on Saturday and a couple of big names to come, it looks like it will drop out.
On a non descript part of northern Brunswick Street in North Fitzroy, i headed out on a Thursday night for dinner at Matteo's to complete number 45 on my list. (15 to go in the next 11 weeks before my deadline). With the outside being rather inauspicious outside, the inside was a complete contrast. a very theatrical dapper dining area with a purple chairs, fine cutlery and beautiful wallpaper and heavy curtains separating the function areas.
After being offered a comprehensive drinks list, i decided to start with a Sapporo beer before heading on to a Scorpo Pinos Gris later in the night (very nice wine). After toying with the idea of al a carte options i decided i would let the chef tell me what i should be eating by selecting the 4 course tasting menu. The 4 courses each featured multiple different parts served on the one plate.
The first course consisted of three elements for the one course. A tartate of citrus cured salmon with avocado served between 2 crackers and topped with salmon roe, a sichuan pepper & garlic prawn tempura on a bed of seaweed salad and finally a wasabi pea crusted yellowfin tuna tartare with a Tokyo turnip and a smoked eel mayo. The tuna had a beautiful crust with just enough wasabi pea and was light and well balanced and my favourite of the three. The tempura was very crisp and had good flavour but lacked any kind of punch or boost from the pepper or garlic. The final element was the cured salmon and the combo of the salmon and avocado worked well together. As a combo the three dishes were presented exquisitely on the plat and the combo of two light and fresh parts and the one cooked tempura part was an excellent contrast.
The second course was again a combo of dishes (in this case 2) served a the one plate. One a crab meat dim sum with gingered wombok cabbage and XO sauce. The other a tempura zucchini flower filled with feta served on a square block of watermelon.
The Zucchini flower had a crisp tempura batter that offered a great contrast between the cool watermelon and salty feta. Quality technique and flavours.
The crab dim sum could be smelt as they served the plate to me and it smelled amazing. Soft delicate crab meat in a soft casing. (not your average dim sum). The XO jam wasn't quite as flavourful or strong as i would have liked (It may have taken over the dish if it was too powerful) but the overall dish was great.
The third and main course was 2 element; one being a twice cooked master stock quail ballotine filled with duck and pork sausage with pickled cabbage and BBQ sauce and the other a Panko (Japanese flaky breadcrumb) lamb cutlet with snow pea and daikon and wasabi mayo. These were both solid dish and showed a great display of technique and mastery of balancing Japanese inflections with European technique but they were only great dishes and lacked a wow factor to take it to the next level. However the wasabi mayo was amazing and the crumbs on the lam cutlet were excellent.
If the main course lacked a slight wow factor then they must have kept it all for the desert. Two amazing deserts. The first a folded orange crepe roulade topped with a creamy and delicious chestnut cream. Accompanying it was a tangerine ice cream with a chocolate wafer on a bed of chocolate soil.
The next was served in a glass on the plate and was a strawberry trifle featuring layers of strawberry jelly and white chocolate and vanilla cream. Combined with framboise macerated strawberries, marshmallows and a crisp macaroon. Well balanced and perfectly executed it offered a re imagining and updating of a classic dish for the 21st Century.
Great concepts and execution and matching of European and Japanese flavours and technique throughout the meal. Throw in good service and it was a memorable meal. Some elements of various dishes lacked a little flavour at times but the finesse and quality of the dishes was outstanding and evident throughout. The desert however were a highlight and a great way to finish the meal. A place in the bottom half of the top time is appropriate for now but with Vue Du Monde on Saturday and a couple of big names to come, it looks like it will drop out.
Friday, October 14, 2011
Cecconi's
10th October 2011
On a Monday, i headed into the city to complete number 44 off my list by going to Cecconi's. Entering a basement restaurant in flinders lane, i was greeted with a cozy Italian dining room with low dim lighting and finery. Split into 2 sections, the bar and casual dining area on the left and fine dining area on the right. The service was polished, polite and efficientt with plenty of Italian phrases and accents from the waiting staff.
For starters i went with one of the specials that were carefully and elaborately explained at the start. The dish of beautifully caramelised scallops, extremely crispy pork belly with a pea puree and mint oil was great. Pea puree was subtle but noticeable combining well with the pork and scallop flavours.
The main course was a homely warming meal that was plated up in a unique and interesting way that i am not sure was the greatest way to present the dish but was definitely something different. Concentric circles of fluffy smooth mash topped with 4 pieces of beautifully moist and tasty chicken combined with a large flat mushroom and a nice jus. Homely, comforting and delicious food that also showed a quality of cooking.
Desert consisted of a walnut fancier with white chocolate custard, port poached figs and raisin ice cream. The fancier was dense, moist and a great walnut taste. Combined with the white chocolate custard that was thick and combined well with both the fancier and the sweet figs. The raisin ice cream was also great and had little chunks of raisins inside.
Quality, home style Italian cooking with great technique and solid flavours. Nothing amazingly new or innovative but that is not this restaurants still and it provides exactly what it set out to. On the more expensive side of 1 Hat restaurants but still reasonable value.
On a Monday, i headed into the city to complete number 44 off my list by going to Cecconi's. Entering a basement restaurant in flinders lane, i was greeted with a cozy Italian dining room with low dim lighting and finery. Split into 2 sections, the bar and casual dining area on the left and fine dining area on the right. The service was polished, polite and efficientt with plenty of Italian phrases and accents from the waiting staff.
For starters i went with one of the specials that were carefully and elaborately explained at the start. The dish of beautifully caramelised scallops, extremely crispy pork belly with a pea puree and mint oil was great. Pea puree was subtle but noticeable combining well with the pork and scallop flavours.
The main course was a homely warming meal that was plated up in a unique and interesting way that i am not sure was the greatest way to present the dish but was definitely something different. Concentric circles of fluffy smooth mash topped with 4 pieces of beautifully moist and tasty chicken combined with a large flat mushroom and a nice jus. Homely, comforting and delicious food that also showed a quality of cooking.
Desert consisted of a walnut fancier with white chocolate custard, port poached figs and raisin ice cream. The fancier was dense, moist and a great walnut taste. Combined with the white chocolate custard that was thick and combined well with both the fancier and the sweet figs. The raisin ice cream was also great and had little chunks of raisins inside.
Quality, home style Italian cooking with great technique and solid flavours. Nothing amazingly new or innovative but that is not this restaurants still and it provides exactly what it set out to. On the more expensive side of 1 Hat restaurants but still reasonable value.
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Bonus Item - Summitt
9th October 2011
After the extravagance of last night and with the restaurant booking system i use offering a free $50 voucher, we headed out again for lunch at the Summit restaurant at the top of Mt. Coot-tha overlooking Brisbane. Spectacular views of Brisbane were offered at our seat near the window.
Even after the 12 courses last night, i was still rather hungry and went for the full three courses (although my mum stole half of the entree).
For entree, i selected the Peking style duck and wonton stack, assorted lettuce, fresh herbs and hoisin sauce. Excellent tender and fall apart duck meat served on a crisp wonton with fresh greens and a delicious hoisin sauce, it was a great start.
My father went for the wild mushroom and feta arancini balls. Good mushroom flavour and a crisp delicious coating.
Following that i went with a main course of lamb rump and beef cheek duo, goats feta and cracked pepper mash, wild rocket, smoked capsicum relish and a single slice of crisp pancetta. The cracked pepper mash was smooth and tasty with the feta woven in a single layer through the mas. The lamb was slightly overcooked but still great but the beef cheek was perfectly cooked and fell apart perfectly. The rest of the dish balanced and complemented the dish well.
Dishes of salmon (mum) and beef and Morton bay bug (dad) were also well received.
The deserts were also fantastic. I went with the chocolate trilogy - a chocolate ice cream sandwich, a chocolate covered strawberry on a bed of white chocolate mousse and finally a dark chocolate cup filled with a milk chocolate mousse. Each individual element was great and it was well presented. The other desert consisted of a deconstructed cheesecake (a puddle of lemon, blobs of meringue and a soil of graham cracker) which looked a bit odd but tasted great and a upside down caramelised pineapple cake.
Not quite of the standard and technique of last night but offered a different type of meal and was more focused on quality produce cooked well. Was still a great meal with the duck and wonton stack being the favourite.
After the extravagance of last night and with the restaurant booking system i use offering a free $50 voucher, we headed out again for lunch at the Summit restaurant at the top of Mt. Coot-tha overlooking Brisbane. Spectacular views of Brisbane were offered at our seat near the window.
Even after the 12 courses last night, i was still rather hungry and went for the full three courses (although my mum stole half of the entree).
For entree, i selected the Peking style duck and wonton stack, assorted lettuce, fresh herbs and hoisin sauce. Excellent tender and fall apart duck meat served on a crisp wonton with fresh greens and a delicious hoisin sauce, it was a great start.
My father went for the wild mushroom and feta arancini balls. Good mushroom flavour and a crisp delicious coating.
Following that i went with a main course of lamb rump and beef cheek duo, goats feta and cracked pepper mash, wild rocket, smoked capsicum relish and a single slice of crisp pancetta. The cracked pepper mash was smooth and tasty with the feta woven in a single layer through the mas. The lamb was slightly overcooked but still great but the beef cheek was perfectly cooked and fell apart perfectly. The rest of the dish balanced and complemented the dish well.
Dishes of salmon (mum) and beef and Morton bay bug (dad) were also well received.
The deserts were also fantastic. I went with the chocolate trilogy - a chocolate ice cream sandwich, a chocolate covered strawberry on a bed of white chocolate mousse and finally a dark chocolate cup filled with a milk chocolate mousse. Each individual element was great and it was well presented. The other desert consisted of a deconstructed cheesecake (a puddle of lemon, blobs of meringue and a soil of graham cracker) which looked a bit odd but tasted great and a upside down caramelised pineapple cake.
Not quite of the standard and technique of last night but offered a different type of meal and was more focused on quality produce cooked well. Was still a great meal with the duck and wonton stack being the favourite.
Bonus Item - Buffalo Club Brisbane
8th October 2011
Having headed up to Brisbane for my birthday, we were had organised dinner out with parents to go to the Buffalo club (unfortunately my first choice Restaurant 2 clearly doesn't want me to come as they have had organised functions the last 2 times we have tried to book). Situated in Fortitude Valley, we organised an 8pm booking. Despite the 8pm booking when we showed up we were told that the table was not ready and we could either head to the Sky Bar for a drink or into their bar for a drink while we waited and they would come and get us once it was available.
Unfortunately 25 minutes and 2 drinks passed before we decided that they were not coming to get us and we made our way down one level to the restaurant, where the hostess remembered us but failed to acknowledge she had failed to get us. We were shown to our seats next to the big open glass windows that provided an uninspiring but surprisingly entertaining view of a busy intersection between several pubs and clubs in The Valley. We were handed a menu and told they would explain it but when a slightly sour young girl came back she just asked which menu we wanted rather than fully explaining. She served us the rest of the evening, and ended up becoming more engaging and convivial throughout the meal, as well as a man in a full tartan suit that had to be seen to be believed. (it was so amazingly bad yet mesmerising).
The menu offered 2 options on a Saturday night, the 8 course Cape Buffalo menu or the 12 course White Buffalo menu. The menus were sealed in an envelope which offered a hint of the theatre the meal would offer. Feeling extravagant and for only $40 more we decided on the 12 White Buffalo menu. Along with the food menu we were given a reasonably extensive wine menu and explained the beers which offered a weird mix of beers which happened to include my favourite beer, Budvar. Unfortunately the wine we selected had run out but we were offered a suitable substitute of greater value for the same cost.
The menu had very simple names for the dishes but offered variety of different techniques and playful variances on the ingredients to show the mastery of the chef and also add textures and whimsy to the dish.
Even with the 12 courses to come we were offered a pre dinner appetiser which consisted of a Quince Collins (like a Tom Collins with Quince instead of gin) and Gougère, pastry filled with melted cheese rather than within the pastry and covered in a garlic snow. The pastry was soft and the cheesy great and the quince Collins was very good. (However i preferred the Gougère at Jacques Reymond).
All the dishes were beautifully presented with a high level of technique and flair associated with the dish. They usually featured a variety of different textures and techniques (soils, gels, purees) and involved the use of one ingredient done in a variety of different ways. The presentation combined soups poured at the table, a variety of beautiful cutlery and different beautiful plates and bowls depending on the dish. Every element of the presentation had clearly been thought out .
The first of the actual courses was a dish of thinly sliced duck combined with a salad of radish and other mini vegetables. Combined with drops of honey, it was light and fresh salad combined with the rich thin slices of duck to add a great depth of flavour. A good start.
The second dish involved thin slices of Octopus, combined with a smokey artichoke puree and other tiny flourishes. The smokey artichoke puree bordered on the too smoky but apart from that the dish was excellent.
The third dish was a delight with a perfectly poached piece of trout that broke away into its different pieces easily but still maintain a firmness. Combined with a pea puree and a cold almond soup poured at the table, the flavours worked well together and was a great dish.
The fourth dish was my parents favourite dish. A large perfectly runny duck egg covered and surrounded by both cold shaved and cooked pieces of asparagus with a hazelnut soil. The egg broke apart perfectly and the warm runny yolk flowed onto the other elements and the flavour was excellent.
The fifth dish had a similar theme to the third with a piece of meat in the centre, this time foie, with a puree, almond parsnip smeared on the side of the bowl, and a soup poured at the table, Chestnut soup. Unfortunately on this occasion the combination did not work as smoothly. The individual elements were great, however the rich and flavourful chestnut soup completely drowned the foie both in appearance and flavour.
The sixth dish unfortunately was another slight disappointment. Little pieces of potato gnocchi combined with mini pieces of cauliflower and squid shaved fine into long thin slices to resemble pasta. This was decent although not for everyone on our table. But the veal tendon reduction that was poured over the top was not a great addition to the dish and i did not enjoy this element.
After the sixth dish and before the 2 slightly more meaty and main course dishes, we were offered a palate cleanser. Combining a cucumber covered in juniper salt, a gin and tonic foam and cucumber granita, it looked fancy but the gin and tonic portion of it was not for me. Maybe i didn't combine the cucumber granita with it as much as suggested but the tonic was so off putting i was unable to even finish it.
After the palate cleanser i was glad for a dish to remove the taste. And it was a worthy dish. A piece of lamb combined with pecorino cheese and courgette with a black olive soil. The meat was cooked well and the cheese was great. It also combined well together.
The eighth course was a piece of onglet (a particular section of skirt from wagyu beef- which was kind of a letdown as we have been speculating as to what an onglet was). Combined with slices of onion, onion and garlic gels and tomato puree, it was a perfectly cooked piece of meat with great textures and flavours from the other elements.
After the main courses was a segue from savoury to sweet dishes with a dish of goat's curd, with a pumpkin puree and beurre noisette. Unusual but great combinations of flavours and a good lead in to the deserts.
The first desert course was beautifully constructed and presented dish of a single scoop of high quality 70% chocolate mousse, with a chocolate and cookies crumble, with crumbled meringue and a variety of different strawberry elements, quartered strawberries, gels and crumbles. Great flavours different textures and a well thought out and executed dish. This was my favourite.
To finished we were offered a dish called Candy. Consisting of three elements - a milkshake separated into 2 elements and served in a tiny milk bottle, apple donuts in a paper bag and pineapple sugar lolly in a plastic bag filled with a ginger sherbet. These were very cute but also tasted great and an excellent finish to the meal. (Although some complained that milk after drinking beer and wine all meal was a bit odd).
As with some degustation menus, there were some elements that were amazing but others that were not to everyone's taste. Overall it was a very good meal. The service started out poorly but got progressively more engaging and charming. The length of the dinner (nearly 4 hours) made this an event that you would not normally undertake and would only be recommended with people you know well as there were significant breaks between courses. (definitely no first dates). The cost was also substantial at $150 per person just for the food but the attention to detail, quality sourcing of ingredients and technique involved showed the dollars were put into the quality of the food rather than decor or profit margins. The meal was an event and well worthy of a visit (just not every weekend) and on a equivalent level as some of the 2 Hat restaurants in Melbourne.
Having headed up to Brisbane for my birthday, we were had organised dinner out with parents to go to the Buffalo club (unfortunately my first choice Restaurant 2 clearly doesn't want me to come as they have had organised functions the last 2 times we have tried to book). Situated in Fortitude Valley, we organised an 8pm booking. Despite the 8pm booking when we showed up we were told that the table was not ready and we could either head to the Sky Bar for a drink or into their bar for a drink while we waited and they would come and get us once it was available.
Unfortunately 25 minutes and 2 drinks passed before we decided that they were not coming to get us and we made our way down one level to the restaurant, where the hostess remembered us but failed to acknowledge she had failed to get us. We were shown to our seats next to the big open glass windows that provided an uninspiring but surprisingly entertaining view of a busy intersection between several pubs and clubs in The Valley. We were handed a menu and told they would explain it but when a slightly sour young girl came back she just asked which menu we wanted rather than fully explaining. She served us the rest of the evening, and ended up becoming more engaging and convivial throughout the meal, as well as a man in a full tartan suit that had to be seen to be believed. (it was so amazingly bad yet mesmerising).
The menu offered 2 options on a Saturday night, the 8 course Cape Buffalo menu or the 12 course White Buffalo menu. The menus were sealed in an envelope which offered a hint of the theatre the meal would offer. Feeling extravagant and for only $40 more we decided on the 12 White Buffalo menu. Along with the food menu we were given a reasonably extensive wine menu and explained the beers which offered a weird mix of beers which happened to include my favourite beer, Budvar. Unfortunately the wine we selected had run out but we were offered a suitable substitute of greater value for the same cost.
The menu had very simple names for the dishes but offered variety of different techniques and playful variances on the ingredients to show the mastery of the chef and also add textures and whimsy to the dish.
Even with the 12 courses to come we were offered a pre dinner appetiser which consisted of a Quince Collins (like a Tom Collins with Quince instead of gin) and Gougère, pastry filled with melted cheese rather than within the pastry and covered in a garlic snow. The pastry was soft and the cheesy great and the quince Collins was very good. (However i preferred the Gougère at Jacques Reymond).
All the dishes were beautifully presented with a high level of technique and flair associated with the dish. They usually featured a variety of different textures and techniques (soils, gels, purees) and involved the use of one ingredient done in a variety of different ways. The presentation combined soups poured at the table, a variety of beautiful cutlery and different beautiful plates and bowls depending on the dish. Every element of the presentation had clearly been thought out .
The first of the actual courses was a dish of thinly sliced duck combined with a salad of radish and other mini vegetables. Combined with drops of honey, it was light and fresh salad combined with the rich thin slices of duck to add a great depth of flavour. A good start.
The second dish involved thin slices of Octopus, combined with a smokey artichoke puree and other tiny flourishes. The smokey artichoke puree bordered on the too smoky but apart from that the dish was excellent.
The third dish was a delight with a perfectly poached piece of trout that broke away into its different pieces easily but still maintain a firmness. Combined with a pea puree and a cold almond soup poured at the table, the flavours worked well together and was a great dish.
The fourth dish was my parents favourite dish. A large perfectly runny duck egg covered and surrounded by both cold shaved and cooked pieces of asparagus with a hazelnut soil. The egg broke apart perfectly and the warm runny yolk flowed onto the other elements and the flavour was excellent.
The fifth dish had a similar theme to the third with a piece of meat in the centre, this time foie, with a puree, almond parsnip smeared on the side of the bowl, and a soup poured at the table, Chestnut soup. Unfortunately on this occasion the combination did not work as smoothly. The individual elements were great, however the rich and flavourful chestnut soup completely drowned the foie both in appearance and flavour.
The sixth dish unfortunately was another slight disappointment. Little pieces of potato gnocchi combined with mini pieces of cauliflower and squid shaved fine into long thin slices to resemble pasta. This was decent although not for everyone on our table. But the veal tendon reduction that was poured over the top was not a great addition to the dish and i did not enjoy this element.
After the sixth dish and before the 2 slightly more meaty and main course dishes, we were offered a palate cleanser. Combining a cucumber covered in juniper salt, a gin and tonic foam and cucumber granita, it looked fancy but the gin and tonic portion of it was not for me. Maybe i didn't combine the cucumber granita with it as much as suggested but the tonic was so off putting i was unable to even finish it.
After the palate cleanser i was glad for a dish to remove the taste. And it was a worthy dish. A piece of lamb combined with pecorino cheese and courgette with a black olive soil. The meat was cooked well and the cheese was great. It also combined well together.
The eighth course was a piece of onglet (a particular section of skirt from wagyu beef- which was kind of a letdown as we have been speculating as to what an onglet was). Combined with slices of onion, onion and garlic gels and tomato puree, it was a perfectly cooked piece of meat with great textures and flavours from the other elements.
After the main courses was a segue from savoury to sweet dishes with a dish of goat's curd, with a pumpkin puree and beurre noisette. Unusual but great combinations of flavours and a good lead in to the deserts.
The first desert course was beautifully constructed and presented dish of a single scoop of high quality 70% chocolate mousse, with a chocolate and cookies crumble, with crumbled meringue and a variety of different strawberry elements, quartered strawberries, gels and crumbles. Great flavours different textures and a well thought out and executed dish. This was my favourite.
To finished we were offered a dish called Candy. Consisting of three elements - a milkshake separated into 2 elements and served in a tiny milk bottle, apple donuts in a paper bag and pineapple sugar lolly in a plastic bag filled with a ginger sherbet. These were very cute but also tasted great and an excellent finish to the meal. (Although some complained that milk after drinking beer and wine all meal was a bit odd).
As with some degustation menus, there were some elements that were amazing but others that were not to everyone's taste. Overall it was a very good meal. The service started out poorly but got progressively more engaging and charming. The length of the dinner (nearly 4 hours) made this an event that you would not normally undertake and would only be recommended with people you know well as there were significant breaks between courses. (definitely no first dates). The cost was also substantial at $150 per person just for the food but the attention to detail, quality sourcing of ingredients and technique involved showed the dollars were put into the quality of the food rather than decor or profit margins. The meal was an event and well worthy of a visit (just not every weekend) and on a equivalent level as some of the 2 Hat restaurants in Melbourne.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Golden Fields
5th October 2011
Having taken a day off following my bday and drink with my brother the night before, i decided to use the opportunity to finish off number 43 from my list. Having already been to cumulus inc and thoroughly enjoying it, i was excited and had high expectations from Andrew McConnell's new restaurant Golden Fields. With a more Asian feel to this menu that the cumulus menu and with the promise of chili, spice and the highly talked about Lobster roll, i headed down to St. Kilda on a bright and warm day.
As with Cumulus Inc, the place had a vibrant vibe and was reasonably noisy with an open kitchen where you could watch the dishes being put together, lots of glass and clean lines and lots of white.
I was given the choice between a high table or a place at the bar. I decided to go for the bar and have a better view of the kitchen and interaction with bar staff. The bar had wooden stools and little hooks attached to it for coats. The staff seemed to enjoy themselves and had good interaction but also maintained efficiency and competence.
After being seated i was offered the reasonable short wine list and choose a decanter of pinot gris. This was accompanied by some spiced seeds. After reviewing the menu i choose to forgo the limited selection of main dishes (only 4) and choose a series of starters and salads and finish with desert. I ended up choosing 3 entrees, 1 salad and 1 desert course.
The first entree to arrive was the Lobster Roll. Quite small but had a variety of flavours, textures and temperatures and consisted of a toasted brioche roll which was crisp and buttery, poached crayfish, watercress and kewpie Japanese mayonnaise. Great balanced flavours and differences in temperature between the cold crayfish and hot buttered roll. This dish was great and you felt like you wanted to order more.
However with other dishes to try i resisted the urge to order another and went on to the second dish, the salad. A salad of shredded and sliced chicken, combined with sesame paste, spring onions, cold rice noodles and a generous chili oil. The contrast between the heat from the chili and the cold moist chicken and other cold elements was great and the flavours really stood out. Also they were not afraid to add some heat to the dish without overpowering it.
The third dish was the rustic pork dumplings with a side of chili vinegar. Good well cooked pork meat encased in a doughy, fluffy dumpling and the side of chili vinegar after being poured on top was excellent.
The final savoury dish was the twice cooked duck. Served like Peking duck with a steamed bread case sliced in half with cucumber and vinegar and plum sauce. The duck skin was amazingly crisp and the duck meat fell apart with the slightest touch of the fork. The sauce was great and the combo was excellent but the star was the duck meat.
For desert i went with the peanut butter parfait sprinkled with extra peanuts covered in salted caramel and topped off with a scoop of soft chocolate. The food was rich and decadent and full of flavour and the presentation and combo of flavours was first rate. Excellent dish.
As much as i loved cumulus inc. this restaurant is much more my style of food and i loved the bold flavours and contrasts in flavours, textures and temperatures with a slightly Asian focus. Quality cooking, great flavours and aesthetically pleasing dishes meant for a quality lunch out. Combined with a relaxed and fun atmosphere it was a great meal out. Don't expect high silver service but a more relaxed and hip vibe. And the cost was very reasonable.
Having taken a day off following my bday and drink with my brother the night before, i decided to use the opportunity to finish off number 43 from my list. Having already been to cumulus inc and thoroughly enjoying it, i was excited and had high expectations from Andrew McConnell's new restaurant Golden Fields. With a more Asian feel to this menu that the cumulus menu and with the promise of chili, spice and the highly talked about Lobster roll, i headed down to St. Kilda on a bright and warm day.
As with Cumulus Inc, the place had a vibrant vibe and was reasonably noisy with an open kitchen where you could watch the dishes being put together, lots of glass and clean lines and lots of white.
I was given the choice between a high table or a place at the bar. I decided to go for the bar and have a better view of the kitchen and interaction with bar staff. The bar had wooden stools and little hooks attached to it for coats. The staff seemed to enjoy themselves and had good interaction but also maintained efficiency and competence.
After being seated i was offered the reasonable short wine list and choose a decanter of pinot gris. This was accompanied by some spiced seeds. After reviewing the menu i choose to forgo the limited selection of main dishes (only 4) and choose a series of starters and salads and finish with desert. I ended up choosing 3 entrees, 1 salad and 1 desert course.
The first entree to arrive was the Lobster Roll. Quite small but had a variety of flavours, textures and temperatures and consisted of a toasted brioche roll which was crisp and buttery, poached crayfish, watercress and kewpie Japanese mayonnaise. Great balanced flavours and differences in temperature between the cold crayfish and hot buttered roll. This dish was great and you felt like you wanted to order more.
However with other dishes to try i resisted the urge to order another and went on to the second dish, the salad. A salad of shredded and sliced chicken, combined with sesame paste, spring onions, cold rice noodles and a generous chili oil. The contrast between the heat from the chili and the cold moist chicken and other cold elements was great and the flavours really stood out. Also they were not afraid to add some heat to the dish without overpowering it.
The third dish was the rustic pork dumplings with a side of chili vinegar. Good well cooked pork meat encased in a doughy, fluffy dumpling and the side of chili vinegar after being poured on top was excellent.
The final savoury dish was the twice cooked duck. Served like Peking duck with a steamed bread case sliced in half with cucumber and vinegar and plum sauce. The duck skin was amazingly crisp and the duck meat fell apart with the slightest touch of the fork. The sauce was great and the combo was excellent but the star was the duck meat.
For desert i went with the peanut butter parfait sprinkled with extra peanuts covered in salted caramel and topped off with a scoop of soft chocolate. The food was rich and decadent and full of flavour and the presentation and combo of flavours was first rate. Excellent dish.
As much as i loved cumulus inc. this restaurant is much more my style of food and i loved the bold flavours and contrasts in flavours, textures and temperatures with a slightly Asian focus. Quality cooking, great flavours and aesthetically pleasing dishes meant for a quality lunch out. Combined with a relaxed and fun atmosphere it was a great meal out. Don't expect high silver service but a more relaxed and hip vibe. And the cost was very reasonable.
PM 24
4th October 2011
Happy Bday to me!! Since it was my bday i decided to treat myself and bring forward one of my restaurants that was planned to be visited in November. I therefore decided to finish number 42 and head to PM 24 for dinner.
We were shown through a high ceiling, with chandelier light fixtures and a black and white contemporary fit out to our seats. Opposite the open kitchen and especially the desert section i was able occasionally watch how the different deserts were put together and created.
The different styles of menu were explained by the charming confident and knowledgeable staff and provided assistance and recommendations when asked. Also offered with the main menu was an extensive drinks list with a wide selection of both french and Australian wines and also beer including some belgium Trappist beer including the one i choose, Chimay tripel.
Shortly after arrived the bread served hot and in a small old school grain sack. The hot bread melted the creamy french butter served on its own wooden board with a butter knife and pink salt.
For entree i decided to have something light, having been out for lunch as well. I went with the endive salad with blue cheese, walnuts, walnut vinegarette and baby beetroots. The fresh salad combined well with the salty strong blue cheese and the nutty walnuts. Good presentation and quality flavours.
For main course i went with the Malawi chicken cooked on a rotisserie to bring out the flavours and it was cooked perfectly. Delicately moist and full of flavour it came out on a bed of vegetable also cooked on the rotisserie style. I combined this with some suggestion from the wait staff with the potato gratin. A cheesy crisp crust on top covered the potatoes which were cooked well.
To finish up the meal i choose the Pistachio Souffle with caramel ice cream. Having been seated next to the desert station we had been watching the desert made for a while and the precision and look of the pistachio souffle won me over. A pistachio souffle mix was finished off with a sprinkle of pistachios embedded inside. The souffle itself was very smooth and had a strong pistachio flavour while the additional pistachios added extra texture and flavour and it was cooked perfectly maintaining its shape throughout. The only down point was there was too little caramel ice cream and it was situated right next to the hot souffle so had melted considerably by the time i had got halfway though.
After desert they offered a free french marshmallow which was soft and had a good strawberry flavour.
Overall a perfect example of french home style cooking with perfect technique and flavours. However given i had heard such great comments about the place ("best french restaurant in Melbourne") it left something on the table in terms of quality and rich french flavours. However this was truly great food and would recommend all french food lovers give it a try. Decent value, service and a cool interior rounded out a quality dinner to celebrate my birthday.
Happy Bday to me!! Since it was my bday i decided to treat myself and bring forward one of my restaurants that was planned to be visited in November. I therefore decided to finish number 42 and head to PM 24 for dinner.
We were shown through a high ceiling, with chandelier light fixtures and a black and white contemporary fit out to our seats. Opposite the open kitchen and especially the desert section i was able occasionally watch how the different deserts were put together and created.
The different styles of menu were explained by the charming confident and knowledgeable staff and provided assistance and recommendations when asked. Also offered with the main menu was an extensive drinks list with a wide selection of both french and Australian wines and also beer including some belgium Trappist beer including the one i choose, Chimay tripel.
Shortly after arrived the bread served hot and in a small old school grain sack. The hot bread melted the creamy french butter served on its own wooden board with a butter knife and pink salt.
For entree i decided to have something light, having been out for lunch as well. I went with the endive salad with blue cheese, walnuts, walnut vinegarette and baby beetroots. The fresh salad combined well with the salty strong blue cheese and the nutty walnuts. Good presentation and quality flavours.
For main course i went with the Malawi chicken cooked on a rotisserie to bring out the flavours and it was cooked perfectly. Delicately moist and full of flavour it came out on a bed of vegetable also cooked on the rotisserie style. I combined this with some suggestion from the wait staff with the potato gratin. A cheesy crisp crust on top covered the potatoes which were cooked well.
To finish up the meal i choose the Pistachio Souffle with caramel ice cream. Having been seated next to the desert station we had been watching the desert made for a while and the precision and look of the pistachio souffle won me over. A pistachio souffle mix was finished off with a sprinkle of pistachios embedded inside. The souffle itself was very smooth and had a strong pistachio flavour while the additional pistachios added extra texture and flavour and it was cooked perfectly maintaining its shape throughout. The only down point was there was too little caramel ice cream and it was situated right next to the hot souffle so had melted considerably by the time i had got halfway though.
After desert they offered a free french marshmallow which was soft and had a good strawberry flavour.
Overall a perfect example of french home style cooking with perfect technique and flavours. However given i had heard such great comments about the place ("best french restaurant in Melbourne") it left something on the table in terms of quality and rich french flavours. However this was truly great food and would recommend all french food lovers give it a try. Decent value, service and a cool interior rounded out a quality dinner to celebrate my birthday.
Saturday, October 1, 2011
Esposito
30th September 2011
A dinner at Esposito on a Friday night provided an opportunity to catch up and have a man date with Dean and also to tick off number 41 from my list. After arriving early in from a cold, wet and windy Melbourne night, we were greeted and told that there were clearing our table and to take at an empty table near the door until it became available. The dining room was plain with white walls and cozy simple fit out with some contemporary art hanging from the walls and very fine tableware and cutlery.
After being offered a glass of wine, before moving to the next table and the waiters even bought across my books and wine. The service was good and pleasant and helpful but at some times slightly over the top and too eager to clear drinks during the meal.
Before starter we were offered a small appetiser of duck liver parfait with a red wine glaze. Good texture and smooth parfait with a nice red wine glaze that had good flavours on their own but weren't amazing together.
For starter i went with the calamari cannelloni with salmon roe and a squid ink sorbet. Soft cannelloni filled with a calamari filling with good flavour. The squid ink sorbet was interesting but didn't add a massive amount to the overall dish.
The main course was a well cooked piece of salmon with a crisp skin matched with a couple of perfectly cooked prawns, pumpkin puree, caramelised walnuts and carrot pieces with mandarin jus. Good quality produce, well cooked matched with some extra above the ordinary touches it was a very good dish and the caramelised walnuts were excellent and matched well with the salmon, The prawns were perfectly cooked but weren't really necessary with the rest of the dish.
To finish off the meal, we both chose the dark chocolate and hazelnut torte which was very rich and delicious and was complimented by a caramel and coffee ice cream served on a bed of crushed meringue. Great flavours and tastes and worked very well.
The overall meal and food was simple food cooked well with a few extra touches that lifted some of the dishes but added little to others. We both agreed that the food was good but didn't provide much innovation and the service whilst being very attentive became somewhat overbearing at times. However the fish was quality and it was well worth going out for, provided decent value and was worthy of it's hat but didn't reach the heights of other restaurants and will likely see it placed in the middle of the pack.
A dinner at Esposito on a Friday night provided an opportunity to catch up and have a man date with Dean and also to tick off number 41 from my list. After arriving early in from a cold, wet and windy Melbourne night, we were greeted and told that there were clearing our table and to take at an empty table near the door until it became available. The dining room was plain with white walls and cozy simple fit out with some contemporary art hanging from the walls and very fine tableware and cutlery.
After being offered a glass of wine, before moving to the next table and the waiters even bought across my books and wine. The service was good and pleasant and helpful but at some times slightly over the top and too eager to clear drinks during the meal.
Before starter we were offered a small appetiser of duck liver parfait with a red wine glaze. Good texture and smooth parfait with a nice red wine glaze that had good flavours on their own but weren't amazing together.
For starter i went with the calamari cannelloni with salmon roe and a squid ink sorbet. Soft cannelloni filled with a calamari filling with good flavour. The squid ink sorbet was interesting but didn't add a massive amount to the overall dish.
The main course was a well cooked piece of salmon with a crisp skin matched with a couple of perfectly cooked prawns, pumpkin puree, caramelised walnuts and carrot pieces with mandarin jus. Good quality produce, well cooked matched with some extra above the ordinary touches it was a very good dish and the caramelised walnuts were excellent and matched well with the salmon, The prawns were perfectly cooked but weren't really necessary with the rest of the dish.
To finish off the meal, we both chose the dark chocolate and hazelnut torte which was very rich and delicious and was complimented by a caramel and coffee ice cream served on a bed of crushed meringue. Great flavours and tastes and worked very well.
The overall meal and food was simple food cooked well with a few extra touches that lifted some of the dishes but added little to others. We both agreed that the food was good but didn't provide much innovation and the service whilst being very attentive became somewhat overbearing at times. However the fish was quality and it was well worth going out for, provided decent value and was worthy of it's hat but didn't reach the heights of other restaurants and will likely see it placed in the middle of the pack.
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