Long Apron

19th October 2013

As a birthday celebration for my 30th and my dad's bday (whilst i was up to visit my parents), we went to The Long Apron (2 Hats in Queensland Good Food Guide) for lunch. Located up the top of part of the Blackall Range it was part of a hotel with superb surroundings and views albeit a bit of a queasy ride up.

The restaurant was set facing out onto the gardens and our table was located on the terrace with uninterrupted views but under the shade.

After being seated we were offered a wine and drinks list and the food options. The drinks list was decent with a good mix of prices and wine by the glass if not thoroughly extensive. The food was offered in 5 sections with 3 choice in each. This was offered in a variety of ways though - as a tasting menu (7 courses selected by the kitchen $125), or 2 ($75), 3 ($85) or 5 ($105) courses (selected by the diner).

We all wanted the choice but were still hungry and all decided on 5 courses. Despite the menu being broken up into 5 sections leading you to believe that it was a requirement to select one from each section, they were quite flexible with this (although they did specify only 1 main and 1 desert). As such i skipped the vegetarian second section and added a second meat entree.

Before any of the actual courses arrived we were served a selection of amuse bouche. The first was a watermelon sashimi, wafer thin and folded into delicate parcels, and accompanied by soft delicate cheesy Gougeres.

In addition was delicious bread with a crisp crust and soft moist inside. To top off the initial dish was a strange but delicious flourish of creativity and flavour. Made to look like a garden served in a clear dish was a Lemon and Eucalyptus mouse topped with an olive and Gribache soil with grisini made to look like branches sticking out the top. Excellent presentation, imagination and amazing flavours.

The first of the courses was a dish the initial fish course with Hervey bay scallops, sea greens, bone marrow and grilled leaks with a roasted celeriac jus. Wonderfully presented and full of contrasting flavours.

The first of the two meat entree courses was a Wagyu tartare with a charred bell pepper with a quail egg. Good meaty flavour and quality ingredients and combined with an interesting and pepper that was soft on the inside but with a chary covering.

The next dish was the one everyone agreed on and all had together and was the last entree course and my second meat entree. It was a roasted duck breast combined with pear, honey, fennel, duck ham and grilled shallot. Perfectly cooked duck and well matched with the pear. The duck ham was also excellent and a dish that came together well.

For the final savoury course and the designated main course, I decided to double up on Wagyu beef with this course being a Rump cap served with aligot (smooth potato puree mixed with cheese), confit vegetables and a mild horseradish cream. Pink medium rare beef with a slightly charred outside and combined with an impossibly smooth and cheesy potato puree made for an excellent dish.

The desert course reminded me of the Forest floor I had previously at the now closed Embrasse (now available at Brooks where the chef has gone). Light fluffy mint sponge with 3 delicious chocolate truffles, crisp sheets of meringue and a ball of mousse with a glaze. Mint and chocolate flavours matched well together and different textures and tastes blended well together. Impressive technique and quality cooking created a magic dish.

A wonderful location and setting for a destination dining experience. The quality didn't stop with the location as the food was well thought out, wonderfully presented and full of flavour. Service was good and food was great value and with a great wine list everything comes together for a excellent meal. Well worth a visit and an excellent place to celebrate a special birthday and well worthy of the 2 hat bestowed on it.

Estelle Bar & Kitchen

4th October 2013

After going to Vue Du Monde and Steer for the last 2 years for my birthday I needed another fine dining restaurant for my 30th bday. After looking at various different places I settled on Estelle Bra & Kitchen in Northcote, much to the approval of Em and Matt.

Given the amount of people coming we were forced to take their private dining area. Located upstairs and through the Kitchen (literally I had a couple of the chefs stand aside to let me through the tiny kitchen) in what was the converted living area. The private dining area was very nice, fancy but cosy as well. I was met by our personal waiter and he ran me through the wine list and stayed for a chat before anyone else had arrived.

After everyone had arrived and grabbed a drink we were offered some appetisers served on a wooden plank - cured melon wrapped in edible paper and black rice cracker with a puree. Excellent presentation and great flavours to be had whilst we continued to chat around the table.

After a little while we all took a seat and continued on to the main part of the meal. We first selected our drinks options, of which I went for the adventurous matching drinks option ($70) to match the 7 courses ($90) we had selected earlier. The chefs would select an aperitif, wine, sake or mini cocktail to accompany each of the courses. They also offered the opportunity for matching wines or normal selection of drinks from a reasonably large list.

The first course was a dish of sweet corn, goats cheese and roasted rice puffs. Sweet corn was slightly charred but very fresh and the combination was excellent.

The next dish (shown above) was a Crab mornay, delicious with big chunks of crab meat and a rich creamy sauce topped with toasted crumbs even if it did look like a big mess.

The next dish was a generous chunk of salmon cooked perfectly and matched with an avocado snow and yuzu. Interesting techniques, flavours and served cold made for a delicious, refreshing  and surprising dish.

The next was a hearty chunk of pig jowl combined with caramelised cauliflower with coffee and chocolate gels. Juicy, rich and fatty and combined with the decadent gels was slightly too rich but still very good.

The final savoury course was a juicy perfectly cooked piece of steak combined with a ox cheek cigar, beans and onion. Excellent steak and cigar and topped off with an excellent jus.

The first desert was one of the signature dishes of Estelle. Soft, extremely light sponge combined with salted caramel, frozen sour cream and pumpkin seeds. Light and airy and not too heavy but with great flavours and textural combinations.

The next desert and final course of the dinner was a combination of chocolate, lemon and toasted nuts. The previous desert was light whereas this was the complete opposite and was rich and decadent. Soft chocolate, chocolate mouse, lemon sorbet and toasted nuts formed an excellent finish.

A well thought out 7 course dinner with balance and the individual courses matched well together to provide variety, balance and not feeling too full or over rich decadent foods. Individually each course was also excellent with quality techniques, textures and flavours. Matched with an interesting combo of drinks, quality service and an excellent private dining area, this was a excellent way to celebrate a birthday.