13th October 2011
On a non descript part of northern Brunswick Street in North Fitzroy, i headed out on a Thursday night for dinner at Matteo's to complete number 45 on my list. (15 to go in the next 11 weeks before my deadline). With the outside being rather inauspicious outside, the inside was a complete contrast. a very theatrical dapper dining area with a purple chairs, fine cutlery and beautiful wallpaper and heavy curtains separating the function areas.
After being offered a comprehensive drinks list, i decided to start with a Sapporo beer before heading on to a Scorpo Pinos Gris later in the night (very nice wine). After toying with the idea of al a carte options i decided i would let the chef tell me what i should be eating by selecting the 4 course tasting menu. The 4 courses each featured multiple different parts served on the one plate.
The first course consisted of three elements for the one course. A tartate of citrus cured salmon with avocado served between 2 crackers and topped with salmon roe, a sichuan pepper & garlic prawn tempura on a bed of seaweed salad and finally a wasabi pea crusted yellowfin tuna tartare with a Tokyo turnip and a smoked eel mayo. The tuna had a beautiful crust with just enough wasabi pea and was light and well balanced and my favourite of the three. The tempura was very crisp and had good flavour but lacked any kind of punch or boost from the pepper or garlic. The final element was the cured salmon and the combo of the salmon and avocado worked well together. As a combo the three dishes were presented exquisitely on the plat and the combo of two light and fresh parts and the one cooked tempura part was an excellent contrast.
The second course was again a combo of dishes (in this case 2) served a the one plate. One a crab meat dim sum with gingered wombok cabbage and XO sauce. The other a tempura zucchini flower filled with feta served on a square block of watermelon.
The Zucchini flower had a crisp tempura batter that offered a great contrast between the cool watermelon and salty feta. Quality technique and flavours.
The crab dim sum could be smelt as they served the plate to me and it smelled amazing. Soft delicate crab meat in a soft casing. (not your average dim sum). The XO jam wasn't quite as flavourful or strong as i would have liked (It may have taken over the dish if it was too powerful) but the overall dish was great.
The third and main course was 2 element; one being a twice cooked master stock quail ballotine filled with duck and pork sausage with pickled cabbage and BBQ sauce and the other a Panko (Japanese flaky breadcrumb) lamb cutlet with snow pea and daikon and wasabi mayo. These were both solid dish and showed a great display of technique and mastery of balancing Japanese inflections with European technique but they were only great dishes and lacked a wow factor to take it to the next level. However the wasabi mayo was amazing and the crumbs on the lam cutlet were excellent.
If the main course lacked a slight wow factor then they must have kept it all for the desert. Two amazing deserts. The first a folded orange crepe roulade topped with a creamy and delicious chestnut cream. Accompanying it was a tangerine ice cream with a chocolate wafer on a bed of chocolate soil.
The next was served in a glass on the plate and was a strawberry trifle featuring layers of strawberry jelly and white chocolate and vanilla cream. Combined with framboise macerated strawberries, marshmallows and a crisp macaroon. Well balanced and perfectly executed it offered a re imagining and updating of a classic dish for the 21st Century.
Great concepts and execution and matching of European and Japanese flavours and technique throughout the meal. Throw in good service and it was a memorable meal. Some elements of various dishes lacked a little flavour at times but the finesse and quality of the dishes was outstanding and evident throughout. The desert however were a highlight and a great way to finish the meal. A place in the bottom half of the top time is appropriate for now but with Vue Du Monde on Saturday and a couple of big names to come, it looks like it will drop out.
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Friday, October 14, 2011
Cecconi's
10th October 2011
On a Monday, i headed into the city to complete number 44 off my list by going to Cecconi's. Entering a basement restaurant in flinders lane, i was greeted with a cozy Italian dining room with low dim lighting and finery. Split into 2 sections, the bar and casual dining area on the left and fine dining area on the right. The service was polished, polite and efficientt with plenty of Italian phrases and accents from the waiting staff.
For starters i went with one of the specials that were carefully and elaborately explained at the start. The dish of beautifully caramelised scallops, extremely crispy pork belly with a pea puree and mint oil was great. Pea puree was subtle but noticeable combining well with the pork and scallop flavours.
The main course was a homely warming meal that was plated up in a unique and interesting way that i am not sure was the greatest way to present the dish but was definitely something different. Concentric circles of fluffy smooth mash topped with 4 pieces of beautifully moist and tasty chicken combined with a large flat mushroom and a nice jus. Homely, comforting and delicious food that also showed a quality of cooking.
Desert consisted of a walnut fancier with white chocolate custard, port poached figs and raisin ice cream. The fancier was dense, moist and a great walnut taste. Combined with the white chocolate custard that was thick and combined well with both the fancier and the sweet figs. The raisin ice cream was also great and had little chunks of raisins inside.
Quality, home style Italian cooking with great technique and solid flavours. Nothing amazingly new or innovative but that is not this restaurants still and it provides exactly what it set out to. On the more expensive side of 1 Hat restaurants but still reasonable value.
On a Monday, i headed into the city to complete number 44 off my list by going to Cecconi's. Entering a basement restaurant in flinders lane, i was greeted with a cozy Italian dining room with low dim lighting and finery. Split into 2 sections, the bar and casual dining area on the left and fine dining area on the right. The service was polished, polite and efficientt with plenty of Italian phrases and accents from the waiting staff.
For starters i went with one of the specials that were carefully and elaborately explained at the start. The dish of beautifully caramelised scallops, extremely crispy pork belly with a pea puree and mint oil was great. Pea puree was subtle but noticeable combining well with the pork and scallop flavours.
The main course was a homely warming meal that was plated up in a unique and interesting way that i am not sure was the greatest way to present the dish but was definitely something different. Concentric circles of fluffy smooth mash topped with 4 pieces of beautifully moist and tasty chicken combined with a large flat mushroom and a nice jus. Homely, comforting and delicious food that also showed a quality of cooking.
Desert consisted of a walnut fancier with white chocolate custard, port poached figs and raisin ice cream. The fancier was dense, moist and a great walnut taste. Combined with the white chocolate custard that was thick and combined well with both the fancier and the sweet figs. The raisin ice cream was also great and had little chunks of raisins inside.
Quality, home style Italian cooking with great technique and solid flavours. Nothing amazingly new or innovative but that is not this restaurants still and it provides exactly what it set out to. On the more expensive side of 1 Hat restaurants but still reasonable value.
Wednesday, October 12, 2011
Bonus Item - Summitt
9th October 2011
After the extravagance of last night and with the restaurant booking system i use offering a free $50 voucher, we headed out again for lunch at the Summit restaurant at the top of Mt. Coot-tha overlooking Brisbane. Spectacular views of Brisbane were offered at our seat near the window.
Even after the 12 courses last night, i was still rather hungry and went for the full three courses (although my mum stole half of the entree).
For entree, i selected the Peking style duck and wonton stack, assorted lettuce, fresh herbs and hoisin sauce. Excellent tender and fall apart duck meat served on a crisp wonton with fresh greens and a delicious hoisin sauce, it was a great start.
My father went for the wild mushroom and feta arancini balls. Good mushroom flavour and a crisp delicious coating.
Following that i went with a main course of lamb rump and beef cheek duo, goats feta and cracked pepper mash, wild rocket, smoked capsicum relish and a single slice of crisp pancetta. The cracked pepper mash was smooth and tasty with the feta woven in a single layer through the mas. The lamb was slightly overcooked but still great but the beef cheek was perfectly cooked and fell apart perfectly. The rest of the dish balanced and complemented the dish well.
Dishes of salmon (mum) and beef and Morton bay bug (dad) were also well received.
The deserts were also fantastic. I went with the chocolate trilogy - a chocolate ice cream sandwich, a chocolate covered strawberry on a bed of white chocolate mousse and finally a dark chocolate cup filled with a milk chocolate mousse. Each individual element was great and it was well presented. The other desert consisted of a deconstructed cheesecake (a puddle of lemon, blobs of meringue and a soil of graham cracker) which looked a bit odd but tasted great and a upside down caramelised pineapple cake.
Not quite of the standard and technique of last night but offered a different type of meal and was more focused on quality produce cooked well. Was still a great meal with the duck and wonton stack being the favourite.
After the extravagance of last night and with the restaurant booking system i use offering a free $50 voucher, we headed out again for lunch at the Summit restaurant at the top of Mt. Coot-tha overlooking Brisbane. Spectacular views of Brisbane were offered at our seat near the window.
Even after the 12 courses last night, i was still rather hungry and went for the full three courses (although my mum stole half of the entree).
For entree, i selected the Peking style duck and wonton stack, assorted lettuce, fresh herbs and hoisin sauce. Excellent tender and fall apart duck meat served on a crisp wonton with fresh greens and a delicious hoisin sauce, it was a great start.
My father went for the wild mushroom and feta arancini balls. Good mushroom flavour and a crisp delicious coating.
Following that i went with a main course of lamb rump and beef cheek duo, goats feta and cracked pepper mash, wild rocket, smoked capsicum relish and a single slice of crisp pancetta. The cracked pepper mash was smooth and tasty with the feta woven in a single layer through the mas. The lamb was slightly overcooked but still great but the beef cheek was perfectly cooked and fell apart perfectly. The rest of the dish balanced and complemented the dish well.
Dishes of salmon (mum) and beef and Morton bay bug (dad) were also well received.
The deserts were also fantastic. I went with the chocolate trilogy - a chocolate ice cream sandwich, a chocolate covered strawberry on a bed of white chocolate mousse and finally a dark chocolate cup filled with a milk chocolate mousse. Each individual element was great and it was well presented. The other desert consisted of a deconstructed cheesecake (a puddle of lemon, blobs of meringue and a soil of graham cracker) which looked a bit odd but tasted great and a upside down caramelised pineapple cake.
Not quite of the standard and technique of last night but offered a different type of meal and was more focused on quality produce cooked well. Was still a great meal with the duck and wonton stack being the favourite.
Bonus Item - Buffalo Club Brisbane
8th October 2011
Having headed up to Brisbane for my birthday, we were had organised dinner out with parents to go to the Buffalo club (unfortunately my first choice Restaurant 2 clearly doesn't want me to come as they have had organised functions the last 2 times we have tried to book). Situated in Fortitude Valley, we organised an 8pm booking. Despite the 8pm booking when we showed up we were told that the table was not ready and we could either head to the Sky Bar for a drink or into their bar for a drink while we waited and they would come and get us once it was available.
Unfortunately 25 minutes and 2 drinks passed before we decided that they were not coming to get us and we made our way down one level to the restaurant, where the hostess remembered us but failed to acknowledge she had failed to get us. We were shown to our seats next to the big open glass windows that provided an uninspiring but surprisingly entertaining view of a busy intersection between several pubs and clubs in The Valley. We were handed a menu and told they would explain it but when a slightly sour young girl came back she just asked which menu we wanted rather than fully explaining. She served us the rest of the evening, and ended up becoming more engaging and convivial throughout the meal, as well as a man in a full tartan suit that had to be seen to be believed. (it was so amazingly bad yet mesmerising).
The menu offered 2 options on a Saturday night, the 8 course Cape Buffalo menu or the 12 course White Buffalo menu. The menus were sealed in an envelope which offered a hint of the theatre the meal would offer. Feeling extravagant and for only $40 more we decided on the 12 White Buffalo menu. Along with the food menu we were given a reasonably extensive wine menu and explained the beers which offered a weird mix of beers which happened to include my favourite beer, Budvar. Unfortunately the wine we selected had run out but we were offered a suitable substitute of greater value for the same cost.
The menu had very simple names for the dishes but offered variety of different techniques and playful variances on the ingredients to show the mastery of the chef and also add textures and whimsy to the dish.
Even with the 12 courses to come we were offered a pre dinner appetiser which consisted of a Quince Collins (like a Tom Collins with Quince instead of gin) and Gougère, pastry filled with melted cheese rather than within the pastry and covered in a garlic snow. The pastry was soft and the cheesy great and the quince Collins was very good. (However i preferred the Gougère at Jacques Reymond).
All the dishes were beautifully presented with a high level of technique and flair associated with the dish. They usually featured a variety of different textures and techniques (soils, gels, purees) and involved the use of one ingredient done in a variety of different ways. The presentation combined soups poured at the table, a variety of beautiful cutlery and different beautiful plates and bowls depending on the dish. Every element of the presentation had clearly been thought out .
The first of the actual courses was a dish of thinly sliced duck combined with a salad of radish and other mini vegetables. Combined with drops of honey, it was light and fresh salad combined with the rich thin slices of duck to add a great depth of flavour. A good start.
The second dish involved thin slices of Octopus, combined with a smokey artichoke puree and other tiny flourishes. The smokey artichoke puree bordered on the too smoky but apart from that the dish was excellent.
The third dish was a delight with a perfectly poached piece of trout that broke away into its different pieces easily but still maintain a firmness. Combined with a pea puree and a cold almond soup poured at the table, the flavours worked well together and was a great dish.
The fourth dish was my parents favourite dish. A large perfectly runny duck egg covered and surrounded by both cold shaved and cooked pieces of asparagus with a hazelnut soil. The egg broke apart perfectly and the warm runny yolk flowed onto the other elements and the flavour was excellent.
The fifth dish had a similar theme to the third with a piece of meat in the centre, this time foie, with a puree, almond parsnip smeared on the side of the bowl, and a soup poured at the table, Chestnut soup. Unfortunately on this occasion the combination did not work as smoothly. The individual elements were great, however the rich and flavourful chestnut soup completely drowned the foie both in appearance and flavour.
The sixth dish unfortunately was another slight disappointment. Little pieces of potato gnocchi combined with mini pieces of cauliflower and squid shaved fine into long thin slices to resemble pasta. This was decent although not for everyone on our table. But the veal tendon reduction that was poured over the top was not a great addition to the dish and i did not enjoy this element.
After the sixth dish and before the 2 slightly more meaty and main course dishes, we were offered a palate cleanser. Combining a cucumber covered in juniper salt, a gin and tonic foam and cucumber granita, it looked fancy but the gin and tonic portion of it was not for me. Maybe i didn't combine the cucumber granita with it as much as suggested but the tonic was so off putting i was unable to even finish it.
After the palate cleanser i was glad for a dish to remove the taste. And it was a worthy dish. A piece of lamb combined with pecorino cheese and courgette with a black olive soil. The meat was cooked well and the cheese was great. It also combined well together.
The eighth course was a piece of onglet (a particular section of skirt from wagyu beef- which was kind of a letdown as we have been speculating as to what an onglet was). Combined with slices of onion, onion and garlic gels and tomato puree, it was a perfectly cooked piece of meat with great textures and flavours from the other elements.
After the main courses was a segue from savoury to sweet dishes with a dish of goat's curd, with a pumpkin puree and beurre noisette. Unusual but great combinations of flavours and a good lead in to the deserts.
The first desert course was beautifully constructed and presented dish of a single scoop of high quality 70% chocolate mousse, with a chocolate and cookies crumble, with crumbled meringue and a variety of different strawberry elements, quartered strawberries, gels and crumbles. Great flavours different textures and a well thought out and executed dish. This was my favourite.
To finished we were offered a dish called Candy. Consisting of three elements - a milkshake separated into 2 elements and served in a tiny milk bottle, apple donuts in a paper bag and pineapple sugar lolly in a plastic bag filled with a ginger sherbet. These were very cute but also tasted great and an excellent finish to the meal. (Although some complained that milk after drinking beer and wine all meal was a bit odd).
As with some degustation menus, there were some elements that were amazing but others that were not to everyone's taste. Overall it was a very good meal. The service started out poorly but got progressively more engaging and charming. The length of the dinner (nearly 4 hours) made this an event that you would not normally undertake and would only be recommended with people you know well as there were significant breaks between courses. (definitely no first dates). The cost was also substantial at $150 per person just for the food but the attention to detail, quality sourcing of ingredients and technique involved showed the dollars were put into the quality of the food rather than decor or profit margins. The meal was an event and well worthy of a visit (just not every weekend) and on a equivalent level as some of the 2 Hat restaurants in Melbourne.
Having headed up to Brisbane for my birthday, we were had organised dinner out with parents to go to the Buffalo club (unfortunately my first choice Restaurant 2 clearly doesn't want me to come as they have had organised functions the last 2 times we have tried to book). Situated in Fortitude Valley, we organised an 8pm booking. Despite the 8pm booking when we showed up we were told that the table was not ready and we could either head to the Sky Bar for a drink or into their bar for a drink while we waited and they would come and get us once it was available.
Unfortunately 25 minutes and 2 drinks passed before we decided that they were not coming to get us and we made our way down one level to the restaurant, where the hostess remembered us but failed to acknowledge she had failed to get us. We were shown to our seats next to the big open glass windows that provided an uninspiring but surprisingly entertaining view of a busy intersection between several pubs and clubs in The Valley. We were handed a menu and told they would explain it but when a slightly sour young girl came back she just asked which menu we wanted rather than fully explaining. She served us the rest of the evening, and ended up becoming more engaging and convivial throughout the meal, as well as a man in a full tartan suit that had to be seen to be believed. (it was so amazingly bad yet mesmerising).
The menu offered 2 options on a Saturday night, the 8 course Cape Buffalo menu or the 12 course White Buffalo menu. The menus were sealed in an envelope which offered a hint of the theatre the meal would offer. Feeling extravagant and for only $40 more we decided on the 12 White Buffalo menu. Along with the food menu we were given a reasonably extensive wine menu and explained the beers which offered a weird mix of beers which happened to include my favourite beer, Budvar. Unfortunately the wine we selected had run out but we were offered a suitable substitute of greater value for the same cost.
The menu had very simple names for the dishes but offered variety of different techniques and playful variances on the ingredients to show the mastery of the chef and also add textures and whimsy to the dish.
Even with the 12 courses to come we were offered a pre dinner appetiser which consisted of a Quince Collins (like a Tom Collins with Quince instead of gin) and Gougère, pastry filled with melted cheese rather than within the pastry and covered in a garlic snow. The pastry was soft and the cheesy great and the quince Collins was very good. (However i preferred the Gougère at Jacques Reymond).
All the dishes were beautifully presented with a high level of technique and flair associated with the dish. They usually featured a variety of different textures and techniques (soils, gels, purees) and involved the use of one ingredient done in a variety of different ways. The presentation combined soups poured at the table, a variety of beautiful cutlery and different beautiful plates and bowls depending on the dish. Every element of the presentation had clearly been thought out .
The first of the actual courses was a dish of thinly sliced duck combined with a salad of radish and other mini vegetables. Combined with drops of honey, it was light and fresh salad combined with the rich thin slices of duck to add a great depth of flavour. A good start.
The second dish involved thin slices of Octopus, combined with a smokey artichoke puree and other tiny flourishes. The smokey artichoke puree bordered on the too smoky but apart from that the dish was excellent.
The third dish was a delight with a perfectly poached piece of trout that broke away into its different pieces easily but still maintain a firmness. Combined with a pea puree and a cold almond soup poured at the table, the flavours worked well together and was a great dish.
The fourth dish was my parents favourite dish. A large perfectly runny duck egg covered and surrounded by both cold shaved and cooked pieces of asparagus with a hazelnut soil. The egg broke apart perfectly and the warm runny yolk flowed onto the other elements and the flavour was excellent.
The fifth dish had a similar theme to the third with a piece of meat in the centre, this time foie, with a puree, almond parsnip smeared on the side of the bowl, and a soup poured at the table, Chestnut soup. Unfortunately on this occasion the combination did not work as smoothly. The individual elements were great, however the rich and flavourful chestnut soup completely drowned the foie both in appearance and flavour.
The sixth dish unfortunately was another slight disappointment. Little pieces of potato gnocchi combined with mini pieces of cauliflower and squid shaved fine into long thin slices to resemble pasta. This was decent although not for everyone on our table. But the veal tendon reduction that was poured over the top was not a great addition to the dish and i did not enjoy this element.
After the sixth dish and before the 2 slightly more meaty and main course dishes, we were offered a palate cleanser. Combining a cucumber covered in juniper salt, a gin and tonic foam and cucumber granita, it looked fancy but the gin and tonic portion of it was not for me. Maybe i didn't combine the cucumber granita with it as much as suggested but the tonic was so off putting i was unable to even finish it.
After the palate cleanser i was glad for a dish to remove the taste. And it was a worthy dish. A piece of lamb combined with pecorino cheese and courgette with a black olive soil. The meat was cooked well and the cheese was great. It also combined well together.
The eighth course was a piece of onglet (a particular section of skirt from wagyu beef- which was kind of a letdown as we have been speculating as to what an onglet was). Combined with slices of onion, onion and garlic gels and tomato puree, it was a perfectly cooked piece of meat with great textures and flavours from the other elements.
After the main courses was a segue from savoury to sweet dishes with a dish of goat's curd, with a pumpkin puree and beurre noisette. Unusual but great combinations of flavours and a good lead in to the deserts.
The first desert course was beautifully constructed and presented dish of a single scoop of high quality 70% chocolate mousse, with a chocolate and cookies crumble, with crumbled meringue and a variety of different strawberry elements, quartered strawberries, gels and crumbles. Great flavours different textures and a well thought out and executed dish. This was my favourite.
To finished we were offered a dish called Candy. Consisting of three elements - a milkshake separated into 2 elements and served in a tiny milk bottle, apple donuts in a paper bag and pineapple sugar lolly in a plastic bag filled with a ginger sherbet. These were very cute but also tasted great and an excellent finish to the meal. (Although some complained that milk after drinking beer and wine all meal was a bit odd).
As with some degustation menus, there were some elements that were amazing but others that were not to everyone's taste. Overall it was a very good meal. The service started out poorly but got progressively more engaging and charming. The length of the dinner (nearly 4 hours) made this an event that you would not normally undertake and would only be recommended with people you know well as there were significant breaks between courses. (definitely no first dates). The cost was also substantial at $150 per person just for the food but the attention to detail, quality sourcing of ingredients and technique involved showed the dollars were put into the quality of the food rather than decor or profit margins. The meal was an event and well worthy of a visit (just not every weekend) and on a equivalent level as some of the 2 Hat restaurants in Melbourne.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Golden Fields
5th October 2011
Having taken a day off following my bday and drink with my brother the night before, i decided to use the opportunity to finish off number 43 from my list. Having already been to cumulus inc and thoroughly enjoying it, i was excited and had high expectations from Andrew McConnell's new restaurant Golden Fields. With a more Asian feel to this menu that the cumulus menu and with the promise of chili, spice and the highly talked about Lobster roll, i headed down to St. Kilda on a bright and warm day.
As with Cumulus Inc, the place had a vibrant vibe and was reasonably noisy with an open kitchen where you could watch the dishes being put together, lots of glass and clean lines and lots of white.
I was given the choice between a high table or a place at the bar. I decided to go for the bar and have a better view of the kitchen and interaction with bar staff. The bar had wooden stools and little hooks attached to it for coats. The staff seemed to enjoy themselves and had good interaction but also maintained efficiency and competence.
After being seated i was offered the reasonable short wine list and choose a decanter of pinot gris. This was accompanied by some spiced seeds. After reviewing the menu i choose to forgo the limited selection of main dishes (only 4) and choose a series of starters and salads and finish with desert. I ended up choosing 3 entrees, 1 salad and 1 desert course.
The first entree to arrive was the Lobster Roll. Quite small but had a variety of flavours, textures and temperatures and consisted of a toasted brioche roll which was crisp and buttery, poached crayfish, watercress and kewpie Japanese mayonnaise. Great balanced flavours and differences in temperature between the cold crayfish and hot buttered roll. This dish was great and you felt like you wanted to order more.
However with other dishes to try i resisted the urge to order another and went on to the second dish, the salad. A salad of shredded and sliced chicken, combined with sesame paste, spring onions, cold rice noodles and a generous chili oil. The contrast between the heat from the chili and the cold moist chicken and other cold elements was great and the flavours really stood out. Also they were not afraid to add some heat to the dish without overpowering it.
The third dish was the rustic pork dumplings with a side of chili vinegar. Good well cooked pork meat encased in a doughy, fluffy dumpling and the side of chili vinegar after being poured on top was excellent.
The final savoury dish was the twice cooked duck. Served like Peking duck with a steamed bread case sliced in half with cucumber and vinegar and plum sauce. The duck skin was amazingly crisp and the duck meat fell apart with the slightest touch of the fork. The sauce was great and the combo was excellent but the star was the duck meat.
For desert i went with the peanut butter parfait sprinkled with extra peanuts covered in salted caramel and topped off with a scoop of soft chocolate. The food was rich and decadent and full of flavour and the presentation and combo of flavours was first rate. Excellent dish.
As much as i loved cumulus inc. this restaurant is much more my style of food and i loved the bold flavours and contrasts in flavours, textures and temperatures with a slightly Asian focus. Quality cooking, great flavours and aesthetically pleasing dishes meant for a quality lunch out. Combined with a relaxed and fun atmosphere it was a great meal out. Don't expect high silver service but a more relaxed and hip vibe. And the cost was very reasonable.
Having taken a day off following my bday and drink with my brother the night before, i decided to use the opportunity to finish off number 43 from my list. Having already been to cumulus inc and thoroughly enjoying it, i was excited and had high expectations from Andrew McConnell's new restaurant Golden Fields. With a more Asian feel to this menu that the cumulus menu and with the promise of chili, spice and the highly talked about Lobster roll, i headed down to St. Kilda on a bright and warm day.
As with Cumulus Inc, the place had a vibrant vibe and was reasonably noisy with an open kitchen where you could watch the dishes being put together, lots of glass and clean lines and lots of white.
I was given the choice between a high table or a place at the bar. I decided to go for the bar and have a better view of the kitchen and interaction with bar staff. The bar had wooden stools and little hooks attached to it for coats. The staff seemed to enjoy themselves and had good interaction but also maintained efficiency and competence.
After being seated i was offered the reasonable short wine list and choose a decanter of pinot gris. This was accompanied by some spiced seeds. After reviewing the menu i choose to forgo the limited selection of main dishes (only 4) and choose a series of starters and salads and finish with desert. I ended up choosing 3 entrees, 1 salad and 1 desert course.
The first entree to arrive was the Lobster Roll. Quite small but had a variety of flavours, textures and temperatures and consisted of a toasted brioche roll which was crisp and buttery, poached crayfish, watercress and kewpie Japanese mayonnaise. Great balanced flavours and differences in temperature between the cold crayfish and hot buttered roll. This dish was great and you felt like you wanted to order more.
However with other dishes to try i resisted the urge to order another and went on to the second dish, the salad. A salad of shredded and sliced chicken, combined with sesame paste, spring onions, cold rice noodles and a generous chili oil. The contrast between the heat from the chili and the cold moist chicken and other cold elements was great and the flavours really stood out. Also they were not afraid to add some heat to the dish without overpowering it.
The third dish was the rustic pork dumplings with a side of chili vinegar. Good well cooked pork meat encased in a doughy, fluffy dumpling and the side of chili vinegar after being poured on top was excellent.
The final savoury dish was the twice cooked duck. Served like Peking duck with a steamed bread case sliced in half with cucumber and vinegar and plum sauce. The duck skin was amazingly crisp and the duck meat fell apart with the slightest touch of the fork. The sauce was great and the combo was excellent but the star was the duck meat.
For desert i went with the peanut butter parfait sprinkled with extra peanuts covered in salted caramel and topped off with a scoop of soft chocolate. The food was rich and decadent and full of flavour and the presentation and combo of flavours was first rate. Excellent dish.
As much as i loved cumulus inc. this restaurant is much more my style of food and i loved the bold flavours and contrasts in flavours, textures and temperatures with a slightly Asian focus. Quality cooking, great flavours and aesthetically pleasing dishes meant for a quality lunch out. Combined with a relaxed and fun atmosphere it was a great meal out. Don't expect high silver service but a more relaxed and hip vibe. And the cost was very reasonable.
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