Friday, February 15, 2013

Albert St Food & Wine

5th January 2012

After some house inspections around the city and some other tasks i decided to treat myself with a lunch at a new Hat Restaurant, Albert Street Food & Wine. Set up in the heart of Brunswick on Sydney Road, it was a fairly low key venue.

Very open with high ceilings and with a minimalist wood interior, the building was broken into two sections with the shop filled with wine, cook books and produce for sale (which i wandered through and nearly bought the excellent desert cook book) and the main dining room separated by the kitchen.

After taking a seat at the bar i decided to really treat myself with 3 courses (although some slightly healthier options) but no alcohol given my recent health kick. I started with a Sprite and settled in to read the moderately extensive menu that was broken up into several sections - Charcuterie, To Start, Pizza, From The Grill, Pasta, Other Mains, Sides  and Cheese & Deserts. The drinks list was very extensive and the menu itself had the separate wines by the glass and beers included.

For entree i started off with a dish of spicy fried cauliflower, baby peppers and tahini yogurt. Crunchy vegetables and a very nice tahini yogurt were excellently balanced, although the spicy was a tempered paprika spice rather than chili spicy. A very well balanced dish and a good start.

The main course i went for the special of chicken breast and leg with very crisp skin, roasted peach and peach jus and witlof salad with a side of kifler potatoes. The chicken was perfectly cooked and wonderfully moist (very likely use of a sous vide machine) but still maintain a crispy skin. Balanced with the roasted peach flavours and the salad it was an excellent dish. However the kifler potatoes were not as crisp as they should be and fell flat and a bit soggy.

Desert provided a little bit of a disappointment followed by a solid recovery. Initially my reason for choosing to come to Albert St was the fantastic deserts offered in particularly the famous PS Snickers. After looking at the menu i was disappointed to see it nowhere to be found and was told it was an occasional special that wasn't available today.

Instead i went for the Mandarin & Chocolate Marquise which was far from a disappointment. Layers of chocolate mousse and mandarin (grand marnier) soaked sponge was an exquisite delight. Combined with a mandarin sorbet, mandarin segments and sugar coated rind, it was a masterclass in desert cooking and technique. Truly Amazing.

Some teething problems with some of the main that may be worked out in the upcoming months as the restaurant hits it's stride (had been only open for a few months) but as is it was a quality showing and worthy of a hat. Desert as you may expect from a chef renowned for deserts was amazing and the food was very reasonably priced and good value. Service was charming and efficient and it was a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Friday, January 25, 2013

Coast (1 Hat Restaurant in Hervey Bay, QLD)

29th December 2012

After my parents sold their place in Brisbane and permanently moved to Burrum Heads in Queensland (3 hours north of Brisbane), we had our first Christmas at their new place.Whilst up their i was keen to try the only Hat Restaurant in about 100km and my parents had planned for a lunch on the 29th December which i secretly hoped would be at Coast.

After keeping it a secret on the drive into Hervey Bay, we finally arrived at a beach side restaurant that was open with views out to the beach and two sections, one of fine dining and a more casual area. They both were serving the same menu so we decided given the heat, lunch time dining and the warm weather outside that we would sit in the more casual area of Coast.

With a shared menu, we went for a few dishes to share for entree, some larger dishes and individual deserts. After much discussion we settled on one from the "straight up" section (small bites), 3 dishes from the "In Between" dishes (entrees) and 2 dishes from the "Meat" section (mains) with 2 sides to accompany the meats.

The first item our was the Steamed Pork buns. Excellent moist meat stuffed into a spongy but excellent bun with a slice of cucumber and some excellent hoisin sauce. Nearly as good as the ones i tried at Golden Fields and an excellent start to the meal.

The entrees all arrived at the same time and there was debate and decision to be made over which one to go for first. I went with the half serve (Meat course that we had as a half serve for entree) of bourbon glazed beef short ribs. Fall apart meat that was superbly cooked but was lacking a little in the bourbon glaze to give it a big flavour hit and wow factor.



The next dish i went for was the crisp fried chicken served on a bed of pickled cucumber, radish and srirachi mayo. Crisp pieces of deep fried chicken contrasted with pickled vegetables and a slightly spicy sauce. Excellent balance of flavour and spice and excellently cooked and even better presentation.

The final dish was surprisingly my favourite dish of the day. A sweetcorn tart with an avocado creme fraiche and red pepper relish. Beautiful to look at with vivid and contrasting colours, the taste did not disappoint either. Delicate, perfectly balanced and the pastry was superb. Exquisite combo and a knockout dish.



We now moved on to the Meats sections of the lunch. Whereas the entrees were mostly beautifully presented and stylish dishes, the Meats section clearly catered to a different audience (although the skill was no less modern).

The first was a slow roasted lam shoulder, a big chunk of fall apart meat that was superbly cooked and had big robust flavours and taste. The tomato relish was a decent accompaniment but a interesting choice for a hearty chunk of meat but the red wine jus was perfectly in tune with the dish.

The Other Meat was a roasted pork collar with excellent crackling throughout the dish and again cooked perfectly. This dish had more of an Asian feel to it and was accomanpanied by rice, lettuce, kimchi, red chili sauce and spring onion. The matching of the Asian themed dish with the pork collar was an interesting choice but it definitely worked (although both meats worked equally well the next day without the extras).

As sides we had some crushed chat potatoes with parsley and chives and a dish of green beans, lemon oil and toasted almonds. Both solid dishes with the lemon oil and almonds adding some extra flavour to the green beans being the better of the sides.

After completing the main courses to the best of our abilities (taking home some of the Meat for the next day), we moved onto the deserts. I went with a dish of dark chocolate brownie, peppermint mascarpone, Oreo crumble, mint coulis and a milk chocolate granache.  Where the mains had been been robust and old school, the deserts were masterpieces of modern cooking and techniques. However where they aligned with the meats was in the boldest of flavours used and quality of ingredients. A truly amazing desert with excellent balance between the mint and rich chocolate with the peppermint mascarpone being an amazing element.
Overall a triumph of quality cooking, ingredients and flavours. A limited menu but each dish we tried was great with a few being a level above and a real gem in coastal Queensland. Quality value (even if i didn't pay) and decent portions made the experience even better with friendly wait staff even if they definitely were of the more casual slower pace of Queensland. Well worth a visit if you are near Hervey bay.

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Scusami

21st December 2012

After selecting a restaurant in the Good Food Guide for the end of financial year dinner, my work again selected one for the Christmas lunch. With views of the river and Melbourne and easy access to pubs for after lunch drinks, the selection of Southbank restaurant Scusami was a solid choice from a location point of view.

After catching the bus to our location, we were shown through the main dining area to the private dining section in a private corner with views our towards the river from our own private balcony. Combined with a perfectly sunny day, it was a great view and an excellent setting for our lunch.

After starting with a cocktail of our choice (mine was a fairly potent Mojito) and much chatter, we sat down and had our entree orders taken. We were selecting from a slightly limited selection due to the large group. After debating whether to go for the calamari, i went with the mushroom and shredded lamb risotto. Before the entree arrived we were also served some bread with a side dish of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. A well cooked bowl of risotto full of flavour and substance.

After the entree, we were offered a choice of 4 mains. I went with the Duck which was a half duck served in its elements (Breast, leg etc.) The rich duck was offset by some sweet quince, muscatels and braised sweet red onions which provided an excellent complement. We also has side dishes of a side salad of wild rocket with Parmesan shavings and lemon dressing and crisp potatoes. A solid well cooked traditional dish that well put together and hearty.

Also one of our work colleagues had to leave after she had ordered desert so i got to sample her Bistecca alla Fiorentina. A substantial T-Bone steak that was char grilled (unfortunately a little to much char from my liking) served with truffled creamed potatoes with Sangiovese sauce. Very decent unsophisticated food that filled the stomach and provided great flavour with the potatoes being my favourite part of the dish.

After a short break for exchanging of gifts, we moved onto desert. I went with a raspberry chocolate mousse. A chocolate mousse with a solid chocolate base filled with a raspberry gel and topped with more raspberry gel and some gold leaf, it was a well put together dish and a great balance of flavours.

Overall a very satisfying meal that provided good traditional Italian food and plenty of it. Solid interpretations of classic Italian dishes were present throughout the menu but little deviation from the standard left little wow factor. However it was good solid food worthy of a visit but missing something extra to bring it to hat status.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

The European

21st October 2012

After a few errands in the city, i decided to finish my weekend with lunch at The European. Recently upgraded to a Hat Restaurant in the recent good food, i was intrigued that it would be increased to Hat status after years of being just short.

When i arrived it was pretty crazy with a show about to start next door and the wait staff were pretty stressed and rushed in their service. However once the initial rush settled down, which would have pushed any restaurant, the staff settled in and provided good and efficient service.

For my final meal before starting a diet, i went for the full three courses. Before ordering food i looked at the extensive drinks list including some quality European beers, including favourites Budvar and Leffe Blonde.

For entree, i went with the smoked eel and jamon croquette. Three balls of beautifully crisp croquette filled with smoked eel and jamon. Combined with a puree and topped with bean sprouts and a slice of lemon. It was very nice  but nothing extraordinary.

Next up was a Pork Cotoletta with Italian Coleslaw, a big chunk of pork with the bone still attached covered in bread crumbs and with a great coleslaw. Again simple food, done well.

I finished with my favourite part of the meal, a desert of chocolate salty caramel, peanuts and yoghurt gelato. A scoop of chocolate salted caramel encased with a crisp shell of dark chocolate. Combined with a dark chocolate stick covered with crushed peanuts and surrounded with both caramelised and chocolate covered peanuts and a smooth and contrasting yoghurt gelato. This was the mix of quality home style cooking and innovation, technique and imagination that is expected of a hat restaurant.

Good quality food and service but, with the exception of desert, the dishes did have the wow factor of a hat restaurant. Still a decent meal and good value with quality ingredients and techniques that will never have you leaving hungry.

Saturday, October 27, 2012

MoVida - Return Visit

13th October 2012

With the Melbourne Marathon the next day, i was staying in the city and had a full day with no plans so i decided to have  a big lunch before having carbo heavy snacks and food and drinks for dinner. After getting into the city about 2 and checking in, i needed a restaurant that was open all day Saturday. With limited choice i still decided on one of my favourites in Movida.

There was a reasonable amount of people in the restaurant for 330pm on a Saturday but nothing like the 3 month waiting list for the premium slots on a Saturday night. I was shown to a seat at the bar and offered a drink. I settled on the idea of having one beer and then water and went for a Moritz lager from a small list of Spanish influenced wines and beers but with some french and Australian wines.

I decided on two tapas and one raciones and a desert. As well as the normal menu they had a number of specials, of which i ended up ordering one tapa and one raciones. I started with the special of rich pheasant terrine encased in a crisp crouton shell and served with a beautifully sweet sherry puree and some pickled onions. Great combos of the rich earthy terrine and sweeter fresher elements.

The next tapa was one of my favourites from a previous visit to the various Movida establishments, the Pollo Escabache Al Miguel. Chicken smothered and marinated in a spicy mayo like sauce and sandwiched between two crisp crouton pieces to make a beautiful dish that will remain a favourite and a recommendation for anyone who goes to Movida.

We then moved on to the raciones which i decided on a special of confit rabbit leg which had been deboned and placed in a ceramic bowl and combined with whole almonds, carrots and a beautiful rich and decadent jus. Wonderfully cooked rabbit that was so moist and the bold rich flavours were definitely a winner. One special that i wouldn't mind being made a permanent dish.

I thought about another racione but decided that with the marathon the next day i decided to just go for desert. I went with the Pan con Chocolate, rich dense chocolate parfait between 2 pieces of toasted brioche and combined with a olive oil sorbet. Great balance and flavours and a worthy finish.


After this visit Movida still remains one of my favourite restaurants with a great vibe, good service and wonderful food that borders the line between innovative, homely and sophisticated. As last time the prices range from $5 per tapa item up to $20 for the bigger raciones but overall the cost is very reasonable and the bill was well under $100. Movida remains a top quality draw as a restaurant and well worth a visit.