The Grand

25th July 2014

For Oli's bday I headed back to The Grand for my first dinner out at a Hat Restaurant in Melbourne for a while. The Grand has retained its 1 Hat status each year since I last went in May 2011. Still located in an old pub on quiet residential street in Richmond, the main bar had seen an update since i was last their with new tables and a smarter less daggy interior. The Restaurant was still located through a small side entry door through the main bar which lead to a mix of old school dining with new school touches.

After being seated at a long table for 15 we were told that our host had organised a selection of entrees for us. On the selection was a sizable antipasto plate with a selection of excellent cured meats, buffalo mozzarella, pickled vegetables and bread sticks, whole char grilled calamari with parsley, capers and a wedge of lemon to drizzle over the top and finally the favourite of Potato gnocchi with brown butter and sage.

For my main course i went with the pan seared loin of venison with truffled honey & vincotto served with miniature king oyster mushrooms. Soft delicious perfectly cooked meat with the rich gamey meats offset with the sweeter accompaniments. The main course was accompanied by 2 sides generously provided by the host including oven roasted garlic and rosemary potatoes and a Rocket, pear, walnut and Parmesan salad. Excellent side dishes with the main and in their own right especially the salad.

I was a little disappointed that one of the desert i had eyed from the menu on the Internet was not on the menu in the restaurant but not too disappointed as the alternative was Bombolini - Italian doughnuts filled with crema pasticcera and served with honeycomb and caramel ice cream. Delicious!

Again service was good and dining room was nice. Wine list (which i didn't participate in) was extensive and varied and as with last time it was well worth the trip out of the way in Richmond.

Rosetta

5th December 2013

After discussing going to Rosetta with Em for at least 6 months and one cancellation we finally headed for dinner with Matt as well. Located at Crown it is the latest of Neil Perry's 3 restaurants at Crown with all three having a distinct different cuisine (Rockpool being the first with contemporary produce based cuisine, Spice Temple as a modern Chinese cuisine and Rosetta an old school Italian restaurant).

An old school classical restaurant located in a square box outside the front of Crown towers that has been decked out with no expense spared with a elegant foyer and entryway through to the main dining . (there was also a private dining area around the other side past stairs down to the bathrooms). The main dining room featured old school photos, old school chandeliers, drapes and comfy old chairs and banquettes. Also a old school new York style bar (but with some new school gadgets including a machine to melt block of ice and shape them into perfect circles of ice) and an extensive list of cocktails.

Old school dressed, confident and knowledgeable waiting staff that were maybe a bit too involved in the dinner at times but provided opinions and knowledge about wines drinks and food. After taking a seat ( i choose the really comfy banquette) and after much talking and not much looking at the menu we finally decided on drinks and dinner.

I decided on just a main course with a side and desert whereas Matt and Em went for a couple of antipasti items along with a main course each and after Em complained she was full she still finished off a desert as well.

Before the ordered courses came out we were offered some very good bread and excellent olive oil and there was plenty of refills of bread as we devoured it.

Em and Matt started with 2 antipasti that i tried a piece of each. The first was a dish of 3 decent sized meatballs along with a rich tomato sauce and a generous helping of shaved Parmesan. Very decent rich and flavoursome meatballs with good sauce and cheese.

The other antipasti was 2 thick triangular chunks of black pudding (blood sausage) which has been pan fried, maybe a little too much, with an excellent salsa Verde. The salsa Verde was excellent and cut through the richness of the blood sausage. However the blood sausage was a little too dry and a bit bland in flavour but a decent dish overall.

My main course was a dish of wood fired roasted lam loin served with a deliberate decent amount of fat and served slightly more cooked than usual as a result. This was an amazing cut of meat and combined well with a mixture of fregola, almond and preserved lemon. Great mix of flavours and a delicious dish.

This was accompanied by a side of extremely crispy potatoes with garlic and rosemary salt which were excellent. Didn't really match with the dish I choose but were delicious not the less.

For desert i went with a dish i have identified for a while and hoped they hadn't changed before i got to go to Rosetta. Described as Frozen chocolate, peanut and coconut semi freddo it was even better than described and expected. A peanut and coconut semi freddo covered in toasted coconut with a disk of frozen chocolate on the bottom surrounded by a pool of  coconut custard. All the elements of the dish were amazing and perfectly measured both individually and as a whole. A good mix of wonderful technique, quality ingredients and a well thought out dish.

Overall the restaurant lived up to most of the top billing it receives. Quality produce and ingredients cooked simply but expertly and with some imagination, perfect technique and with good presentation. Dishes were on the pricey side and definitely a restaurant for the grand occasion rather than a weekly experience but it was certainly special when combined with the service, extensive drinks list and a dining room that meets its mark. Very worth a visit and the wait.

Long Apron

19th October 2013

As a birthday celebration for my 30th and my dad's bday (whilst i was up to visit my parents), we went to The Long Apron (2 Hats in Queensland Good Food Guide) for lunch. Located up the top of part of the Blackall Range it was part of a hotel with superb surroundings and views albeit a bit of a queasy ride up.

The restaurant was set facing out onto the gardens and our table was located on the terrace with uninterrupted views but under the shade.

After being seated we were offered a wine and drinks list and the food options. The drinks list was decent with a good mix of prices and wine by the glass if not thoroughly extensive. The food was offered in 5 sections with 3 choice in each. This was offered in a variety of ways though - as a tasting menu (7 courses selected by the kitchen $125), or 2 ($75), 3 ($85) or 5 ($105) courses (selected by the diner).

We all wanted the choice but were still hungry and all decided on 5 courses. Despite the menu being broken up into 5 sections leading you to believe that it was a requirement to select one from each section, they were quite flexible with this (although they did specify only 1 main and 1 desert). As such i skipped the vegetarian second section and added a second meat entree.

Before any of the actual courses arrived we were served a selection of amuse bouche. The first was a watermelon sashimi, wafer thin and folded into delicate parcels, and accompanied by soft delicate cheesy Gougeres.

In addition was delicious bread with a crisp crust and soft moist inside. To top off the initial dish was a strange but delicious flourish of creativity and flavour. Made to look like a garden served in a clear dish was a Lemon and Eucalyptus mouse topped with an olive and Gribache soil with grisini made to look like branches sticking out the top. Excellent presentation, imagination and amazing flavours.

The first of the courses was a dish the initial fish course with Hervey bay scallops, sea greens, bone marrow and grilled leaks with a roasted celeriac jus. Wonderfully presented and full of contrasting flavours.

The first of the two meat entree courses was a Wagyu tartare with a charred bell pepper with a quail egg. Good meaty flavour and quality ingredients and combined with an interesting and pepper that was soft on the inside but with a chary covering.

The next dish was the one everyone agreed on and all had together and was the last entree course and my second meat entree. It was a roasted duck breast combined with pear, honey, fennel, duck ham and grilled shallot. Perfectly cooked duck and well matched with the pear. The duck ham was also excellent and a dish that came together well.

For the final savoury course and the designated main course, I decided to double up on Wagyu beef with this course being a Rump cap served with aligot (smooth potato puree mixed with cheese), confit vegetables and a mild horseradish cream. Pink medium rare beef with a slightly charred outside and combined with an impossibly smooth and cheesy potato puree made for an excellent dish.

The desert course reminded me of the Forest floor I had previously at the now closed Embrasse (now available at Brooks where the chef has gone). Light fluffy mint sponge with 3 delicious chocolate truffles, crisp sheets of meringue and a ball of mousse with a glaze. Mint and chocolate flavours matched well together and different textures and tastes blended well together. Impressive technique and quality cooking created a magic dish.

A wonderful location and setting for a destination dining experience. The quality didn't stop with the location as the food was well thought out, wonderfully presented and full of flavour. Service was good and food was great value and with a great wine list everything comes together for a excellent meal. Well worth a visit and an excellent place to celebrate a special birthday and well worthy of the 2 hat bestowed on it.

Estelle Bar & Kitchen

4th October 2013

After going to Vue Du Monde and Steer for the last 2 years for my birthday I needed another fine dining restaurant for my 30th bday. After looking at various different places I settled on Estelle Bra & Kitchen in Northcote, much to the approval of Em and Matt.

Given the amount of people coming we were forced to take their private dining area. Located upstairs and through the Kitchen (literally I had a couple of the chefs stand aside to let me through the tiny kitchen) in what was the converted living area. The private dining area was very nice, fancy but cosy as well. I was met by our personal waiter and he ran me through the wine list and stayed for a chat before anyone else had arrived.

After everyone had arrived and grabbed a drink we were offered some appetisers served on a wooden plank - cured melon wrapped in edible paper and black rice cracker with a puree. Excellent presentation and great flavours to be had whilst we continued to chat around the table.

After a little while we all took a seat and continued on to the main part of the meal. We first selected our drinks options, of which I went for the adventurous matching drinks option ($70) to match the 7 courses ($90) we had selected earlier. The chefs would select an aperitif, wine, sake or mini cocktail to accompany each of the courses. They also offered the opportunity for matching wines or normal selection of drinks from a reasonably large list.

The first course was a dish of sweet corn, goats cheese and roasted rice puffs. Sweet corn was slightly charred but very fresh and the combination was excellent.

The next dish (shown above) was a Crab mornay, delicious with big chunks of crab meat and a rich creamy sauce topped with toasted crumbs even if it did look like a big mess.

The next dish was a generous chunk of salmon cooked perfectly and matched with an avocado snow and yuzu. Interesting techniques, flavours and served cold made for a delicious, refreshing  and surprising dish.

The next was a hearty chunk of pig jowl combined with caramelised cauliflower with coffee and chocolate gels. Juicy, rich and fatty and combined with the decadent gels was slightly too rich but still very good.

The final savoury course was a juicy perfectly cooked piece of steak combined with a ox cheek cigar, beans and onion. Excellent steak and cigar and topped off with an excellent jus.

The first desert was one of the signature dishes of Estelle. Soft, extremely light sponge combined with salted caramel, frozen sour cream and pumpkin seeds. Light and airy and not too heavy but with great flavours and textural combinations.

The next desert and final course of the dinner was a combination of chocolate, lemon and toasted nuts. The previous desert was light whereas this was the complete opposite and was rich and decadent. Soft chocolate, chocolate mouse, lemon sorbet and toasted nuts formed an excellent finish.

A well thought out 7 course dinner with balance and the individual courses matched well together to provide variety, balance and not feeling too full or over rich decadent foods. Individually each course was also excellent with quality techniques, textures and flavours. Matched with an interesting combo of drinks, quality service and an excellent private dining area, this was a excellent way to celebrate a birthday. 

Pure South

15th September 2013

After recently being elevated to one Hat status due to a new chef returning to Australia after a stint at a 2 Michelin star restaurant in London and some subtle tweaks to the menu and presentation of dishes, i was keen to try this restaurant again after many years. So on a surprisingly warm Sunday afternoon and after building a decent hunger after a Crossfit class, i headed to Pure South for a relaxing late Sunday afternoon lunch.

After taking a seat outside in the more relaxed casual area (menu was the same for both areas) i was offered an extensive drinks menu and food menu that was broken down into entrée, main, beef and finally desert and cheese. After i had settled in a waitress came around with warm bread fresh from the oven which was crisp on the outside and soft inside and accompanied with very nice butter.

 

After my first choice drink was not available (Moo Brew Czech pilsner) i went with a glass of Stoney Chimney Pinot Gris. A very nice glass of wine.

 

I decided to forgo entree and head straight for main course. After reading about this main in the latest good food guide, i went for the Rabbit saddle served in 2 circular perfectly cooked blocks with a seared and slightly crisp outside on a bed of broad beans and peas with a meaty rabbit jus. It was also served with a separate rabbit Sheppard's pie with moist delicious chunks of rabbit with peas, carrot in a warm delicious gravy and covered with fluffy, creamy mash. Perfect and delicious comfort food and well worthy of the highest praise.  

I asked the waitress whether the above main would be sufficient or whether a side would be needed and this is the only part where i was steered wrongly. The above dish was more than enough especially given the richness of the food. However the side of triple cooked chips where perfectly crisp and delicious but decided not to finish them all.

I would need room for the desert of Chocolate & praline mousse with mandarin gels and a crumble of roast hazelnuts. A rich decadent bar of chocolate mousse with a base of praline base was topped off by candied and fresh mandarin and served with intense blobs of mandarin gel and a pile of toasted hazelnuts.Great flavours matched with quality plating and great technical mastery showed off a desert and chef at the top of its game.

Quality high end comfort food and excellent surroundings and service, probably the only quibble was due to being on Southbank the prices were on the more expensive side ($35 mains $18 deserts) but that did not detract from a very enjoyable lunch.