3rd March 2012
After having been recommended to go to the French Brasserie by a friend (Em), me and Anja decided to try it for ourselves. With the food and Wine festival happening we decided to try a special dinner evening event. After booking several months in advance, we found out that they had lost our reservation and unfortunately we would be seated outside. (especially bad given the cold and rainy Melbourne night - although there was a heater). Not a great start but they did attempt to make it up to us by giving us free drinks all night, very nice but as both of us were driving we had limited opportunity to sample. (After an Anja email they also offered for us to come back again for a free 5 course degustation for 2).
A very strange dining room and restaurant down an otherwise deserted lane way off flinders lane with a split level and very high expansive ceilings with exposed pipes and heating, a bar and a private dining area up a flight of stairs.
The service apart from the initial hiccup was familiar (somewhat overly - i don't think i have been given a massage before at a top restaurant) and efficient especially given the large amount of people taking part in the special event and all being seated and ordering the 5 course dinner at the same time. The pacing of the dinner however was extremely slow and party animal Anja was drifting off by the end due to lack of sleep the night before (or i was just really boring company). Although they did try to keep us entertained with some performer playing instruments and singing French songs.
After being told to arrive for 630 for champagne and to be seated, the first course wasn't until about 715. The first course was a thin slice of puff pastry topped with asparagus, shallots and a sweet garlic cream. Very well cooked pastry and a good fresh blend of flavours was a good start to the meal.
After that came the second course of a smocked pork hock, leek and carrot terrine accompanied by a dandelion salad and a small amount of hock broth. Very well presented and with a full flavour, there was a little too much jelly rather than meat for me.
The third course was the fish course. Consisting of a well cooked Flathead fillet sitting on a very small amount of excellent fish soup (shame there wasn't more which i mopped up with some bread) and finished off with baby carrots and potatoes and a crouton.
The last main course was a confit lamb shoulder which had been slow cooked until it had a dense fat apart meat. Topped with a citrus crust it was a great piece of cooking. Combined with potato salardaise (which was nice but not fantastic) snow pea tendrils and a lamb jus. Quality cooking that was let down slightly by some elements (potato and unnecessary snow pea tendrils).
The next course was the cheese course. Normally not the greatest fan of cheese courses at restaurants, this one did it's best to convert me. A soft cheese with strong flavour that may have been too strong on its own but was perfectly matched by poached pear in spiced syrup, beetroot dressing and brioche. A balanced flavour that match relatively ordinary ingredients and added a class to a dish.
The last course was clearly my favourite though. Named 'La fantaisie de chocolat' and it truly was a fantasy. A chocolate almond dacquoise with chocolate mousse, crystallised chocolate, frozen aero and a creme fraiche ice cream. Beautiful texturally and exquisite flavours and wonderful presentation. Anja was glad she stayed awake for this one as if she had fallen asleep i would have eaten hers as well rather than wake her up.
Overall a very good meal and apart from the major glaring hiccup in service it was a well presented and executed evening. The price was acceptable but some of the lustre was taken off the evening by the being separated from the majority of the dining room. Not my favourite French restaurant (maybe an indication is i allowed Anja to take someone else for the return) but well worth a visit.
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